Monday, December 30, 2013

Sydney on New Year's Eve

I realize I am really really far behind on blogging.  It's not just internet access, it's finding the time!  We are having a wonderful time, and sad to see it coming soon to an end.

Here are a few pictures to tide you over until I can catch up more.  These are the views from where we are staying in Sydney.  We will see the fireworks over the harbor bridge tonight.



Monday, December 23, 2013

Snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef!

Monday, December 23

This was one of my planned highlights, and it met all expectations.  I decided to go with Wavelength out of Port Douglas after reading several reviews from friends on the Fodors web site, and review on trip advisors.  It's a snorkel only trip, and they have a marine biologist on board, although frankly all three of the crew were super knowledgeable.  Trips are limited to 30 people.

Check in was at 8, and soon we were on our way.  The seas were not as rough as they had been, apparently, but there was plenty of chop.  Two of the passengers didn't do well at all and I felt so sorry for them!

There were three stops for snorkeling, and at the first two they led snorkeling tours.  Tim and Emma would dive down, bring something up and explain it, or, tell you about something up top and everyone could then look down with their snorkeling mask and see what they were talking about.  This was a very nice addition to just swimming around and looking at stuff, although that was pretty cool too.

Super cool highlights of the trip:


  • Seeing a white tipped shark
  • Seeing a sea turtle
  • Watching Emma tap a giant clam and seeing it close
  • Seeing two clownfish in purple anemone
  • Watching Emma squeeze a sea cucumber and having it spit out its insides (I think it is called evisceration and it doesn't hurt it)
  • Seeing a sea cucumber up close and personal
In addition to the snorkeling tours, at lunch time Emma (the marine biologist) did a reef talk.

Wavelength treats you right as well.  They have unlimited coffee, tea and water on board, as well as 50 spf sunscreen!

They greet you with a tray of muffins upon arrival, and after you come back from the first snorkeling hour there is morning tea waiting for you (brownies, cookies, and a fruit tray).  After the second snorkeling hour at another area on the reef you come back to find lunch (a really nice spread of salad, grilled vegetables, sandwich stuff, and some kind of noodle dish).  After the third snorkeling hour (at the third place on the reef) they had a fruit and cheese tray.

We are back well after five and Steve is waiting.  We've got to get up to Daintree Village!

What day is it?

I wrote Saturday in my journal when I started writing on December 22...It's great when you get to the point where you have forgotten what day it is.  Except when you have flights to catch.

Mt. Lewis
Luckily, we didn't have a flight to catch but we did want to get an early start up Mt. Lewis.  Steve had told Barbara 6 am and she was ready, right outside the kitchen window as I washed the breakfast dishes.   Unfortunately we were running about 10 minutes late but we were on our way shortly.

This road is so much better than the first time we drove it in 2003!  Then we had to inch our way along, dodging ruts and trying to not bottom out the rental car that we were not supposed to be driving on an unsealed road.  This time it was legal (I rented from Hertz especially because of this) and the road was just your normal gravel track.  We made good time, and had a few good birding stops including one for a paradise kingfisher that posed for a bit.  Barbara was very excited as she had not seen one in many years.

It was pretty cool up on the mountain, and the cloud cover just would not go completely away.  Still, we had some fun things to watch.


  • Gray fantail on its next, mom and dad trading places.
  • Toothbilled bowerbird displaying, and doing some kind of funny things around it's collar/cheeks.  Steve got it on video and we will have to check it out in my new bowerbird book.
  • A Cairns Birdwing that actually decides to light on a tree and let me get a good long look
  • Stopping so Barbara can try to tap out an owl and realizing that right outside my driver's side window two Chowchillas are perched in a tree
  • A red-backed button quail skittering across the road as I read, and then three more that I flushed three different times
  • A Macleay's Swallowtail
Steve got a fern wren that stubbornly stayed in shadow.

Cool Birds of the day

Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher
Gray Fantail
Red-backed button quail (r)
Grey headed Robin
Golden Whistler
Chowchilla
Eastern Spinebill
Mistletoe bird
Tooth-billed bowerbird

Cool butterflies of the day

Cairns Birdwing
Macleay's Swallowtail
Pale triangle (I think)
Ambrose Swallowtail (spotted by Carol Isles)
Ulysses




12/21 Bird and Butterfly Stars

While the bustards were the main stars, there were a few other pretty cool ones for the day.  For me, they were:

Birds
Black spectacled monarch
Pied monarch
Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher
Double-eyed fig parrot
Blue-faced honeyeater
Red-shouldered parrot
Great Bowerbird
Brown-backed honeyeater
Rainbow lorikeets
Forest kingfisher

Butterflies

Orchard swallotail
Big Greasy (clearwing)
Blue triangle (a really gorgeous one)
Varied Eggfly
Common crow?
Red-banded jezebel

Don't worry birder friends, eventually I will get Steve to sit down with me and list the ones he has seen.

Saturday, December 21st--Bustards are the star of (my) day

Kingfisher Lodge

Kingfisher lodge is always a great stop on our birding trail.  Steve can walk right out the door and bird, there's a big veranda for relaxing, a full kitchen, and laundry facilities. It's well known habitat, especially for the buff-breasted paradise kingfisher, and absolutely gorgeous bird.  Upon arrival we are told that there are about six nesting on the property.

My lazy morning

Steve heads out the door early to bird, and I take my time drinking tea on the veranda.  I head out to start the laundry and Steve comes to get me to take a look at double-eyed fig parrots.  Such cool parrots.

As I am hanging out the first load, a kingfisher buzzes my head.  How's that for a first sighting?

So, I spend my morning on laundry, trying to catch up on this blog, and at the same time writing in my journal.  I do this all from the table in front of our room and still see Black-spectacled Monarch, some red-brow finches, and tons of butteflies...Clearwing, blue triangle, orchard swallowtail, and red-banded jezebel.

Time for Bustards!

I love Bustards, they are the coolest birds.  They sort of strut, with their heads pointed upwards.  Steve comes after me mid-afternoon to take me out looking for them.  We saw two out at Undara, but there is a place near the lodge where you can pretty much always spot some so we head there.  The area paid off, and we saw 14 total.  One time we had a family of mom, dad, and baby.  The largest group of them froze when we stopped, and slowly settled down into the grass, with their heads pointed up.  Eventually they all rose, turned their backs on us, and strutted away.

And now, time for the Great Bowerbird

There used to be a bower along the public footpath in Mt. Molloy so we headed there next to see what we could see.

We headed down the path and there were a bunch of yappy dogs.  One little dog was particularly friendly, and then got friendlier, humping my leg.  Um, welcome to Australia?

The bower looks pretty abandoned so we walk back to the front of the church on the mainstreet, and just as we are about to go two fly in...and the fuchsia on their heads is in full display.  It is so cool.  We watch them for a bit, and trace their routes trying to find their bower, but no luck.

The day wrapped up with stops on Big Mitchell Creek, back to Mt. Molloy and Bicentary Park (Nice Forest Kingfisher) then back to the lodge and Steve birds while I make dinner.   For some reason I thought I needed to make Fried Chicken and Mashed Potatoes.  In the rainforest.  In summer.  No AC.  Let's just say it got steamy.

Steve was sitting out front catching up on the birds he had seen when an older woman stopped to chat with him.  He called me out there to answer a question, and then she asked what we were doing the next day.  Steve said going to Mt. Lewis, and she excitedly asked if she could go.  We said yes, so we had a guest for the next day.

Sunday, December 22, 2013

14 bustards in one day!

If you squint you will see a bustard. My favorite Australian bird!

Sticker on the inside of the windshield of our rental car

One of the falls on the circuit

Milaa Milaa falls. Wait I think might be Millaa Millaa but I am too lazy to look it up right now. 

Awesome name for a ceiling fan

This is for you brother John. 

What my ankles looked like

Apparently Australia doesn't love me as much as I love it. 

Wrapping up Yungaburra and on to Julatten

Lodging - Kookaburra Lodge

This worked out beautifully for us.  It's very reasonably priced, especially when you are birding and mainly sleeping and showering there.  You had two choices for breakfast, eggs and bacon or scrambled herbed eggs.  The fried eggs and bacon were good, and the herbed scrambled eggs were really good.  It was served on the table outside your room.

The rooms are small, but just fine for what we needed.  The gardens are beautiful, and filled with butterflies.  It was also convenient to just walk into the village, which I did on the Wednesday.  The hosts were especially nice, and we would definitely stay there again.

Dining

Nick's

Everyone seems to know about Nick's, and when we realized we had missed the grocery story by 9 minutes (closed at 7) we decided to try it out.  Steve had a wood-fired pizza and I had spaghetti, and we shared a salad.  We were both pretty full!  Two nights later we returned for pizza as they had carryout and we were both sort of tired and wanted to stay in.  The spaghetti was okay, but the pizzas were really good, we would recommend.

Lake Eacham Hotel

I ate lunch there on my stay-home day, and had bangers and mash.  It was okay.  The serving was huge, and I couldn't eat it all.  I could see that many of the other servings around me were also gigantic.  Roasted pumpkin made its appearance on the plate and was really good.

Then, Steve and I ate there that night as well.  I had their garlic prawns and rice, and it was delicious. Steve had a burger and fries that he also thought was good.

After talking to the bartender for awhile, Steve tried the Bundaberg Sarsparilla and I tried their Ginger Beer.  Really refreshing.

We poked around the dining room as we waited for the meal.  Did I already describe the building?  Creaking wooden floors, huge rooms that go on and on,  big sliding doors between the rooms with wood on the bottom and stained glass at the top,  pub on one side with a room with pool tables and poker tables, and tables outside in front so you can watch the world go by.

On to Julatten

After we left Lake  Eacham on Friday we made our way to Julatten via Atherton and Mareeba.  As always, we just enjoy looking around the countryside as we go.  We had driven this way with Alan the day before when we went to Granite Gorge, and soon passed that turn off.

I stopped at a roadside stand and bought sugar bananas, mango, and passion fruit.  I really thought I was stopping at a watermelon stand, but it turns out that sign was for a stand across the highway.  But then I felt committed to buy something because the old guy was so sweet.  He cut open a passion fruit so I could try it, then picked out four for me.

Then I bought a mango because I figured it was time I tried them again.  He took his time finding just the right mango for me.  Turns out, I still don't like them.

Then I bought sugar bananas, because hey, I like bananas, and it has sugar in the name, so what's not to like?  Apparently a lot.

The passion fruit is a hit though!  I am eating some now.

 Mareeba was the last big town before Julatten, so I dropped Steve at the Rotary Park there to bird, and I went back to fill up the gas tank and go grocery shopping.  I bought some watermelon here since I missed out on the stand earlier.

We hadn't eaten since breakfast, so I made a third detour, driving through a Red Rooster and getting some chicken sandwiches and coke for the two of us.  Back to the park where I waved him down and we picnicked there before moving on.

Unfortunately it sounds like the fruit bats have really changed the habitat at the park, and the birding wasn't great.  We also stopped at Abbatoir Swamp (inviting name, right?) but the boardwalk is really in disrepair, and there wasn't much going on.  On to Kingfisher Lodge whre Steve went birding and I got dinner ready.


Saturday, December 21, 2013

Finally, Friday December 20. The Mistletoe Bird at last becomes cooperative - sort of

Although Alan's obligation to us was more than fulfilled, he kindly offered to meet up with us in the morning and take us over to his friends' place at Crater Lake Rainforest Cottages-in search of the riflebird.

His friends John and Jenny Wright, the owners, let us wander their grounds and sit on their veranda even though we weren't staying there.

We walked down to the cottages, and got a long shot of the riflebird and the blue off its butt, but that was about it.

The cottages are gorgeous, and definitely a place to consider if you are in the tablelands.  Large rooms, generous kitchen, hardwood floor, comfy looking couch, and spa baths with bay windows built out into the rainforest.  Each has their own private veranda, and in addition there is a public pavilion with table and chairs, and bbq to use.  There is a nice waterfall feature built alongside.  www.craterlakes.com.au if you would like to take a look.

Alan had a Christmas party to attend so left to meet up with Maria and left us with John and Jenny on the veranda.  John and Steve chatted a bit and John had to leave, so Steve checked out birds and Jenny and I sat and chatted.  She was very sweet and I enjoyed talking to her, and watching the Rainbow Lorikeets.

Steve had a date with the mistletoe bird, so we went back over to Lake Eacham.  It hung around for hours, along with a Scarlet Honeyeater.  A Ulysses butterfly made an appearance, as well asa zodiacmoth and    later a Silver eye something or another.  We were there a pretty long time while Steve tried to get a good shot, and up drove Alan, Maria, and their ten year old neighbor Imogene.  It was nice to meet Maria!

Lake Eacham is another crater lake, and there's no beach as such.  In one area there's a platform people can swim off of, and in another area there are just some steps that go right down into the water.  I poked a toe in and it wasn't too cold.  People were swimming and paddle boarding even though it was again cool and rainy.

Eventually we hit the road and head to Julatten and Kingfisher Lodge.

I'm worried I'm repeating myself so will stop here and check back later.

Friday, December 20, 2013

December 19 - continued!

I realize this is a little disjointed!  I posted some about Granite Gorge the other day, and I started the 18th, 19th, 20th series in a separate posts.  Since it's not like I'm giving a test on what happened which day, it will be all right.

Alan picks us up about 7:30 and we head out to Granite Gorge.  It's fun with him driving because he knows so much history and natural history.  We pass banana, mango, and macadamia nut orchards, and learn a little about each as we go.

We proceed to granite country, and the massive upthrusts of granite that form the landscape.

There are a few bird stops on the way, and then we are looking for the frilled lizard (correct name?).  We spot one in the road, come to a stop, and the darned thing takes off.  And, instead of running right up a tree and freezing like they usually do, it just keeps going.

On we go, and after Alan pulls into the lane at the Granite Gorge Nature Park he pulls off into a field.

There's a Great Bowerbird bower to see!  This one is very cool,lots of white snail shells,white rocks, flowers, pull tabs.  But, there are also some red clothespins, red flowers, and green fruits.  I meant to ask Alan about this but forgot.

Most of the ornamentation is up front, but there is also some decoration in the back--just in case the female approaches from that side.  Inside the bower is a small platform of sorts.  Alan points out how the male has used scale and perspective to make himself look bigger.  So cool.

I do have pictures and video that I will try to get uploaded.

I've already posted about the Rock Wallabies.  It was so fun to feed them, and watch them.  These are not captive wallabies.  It's amazing to see them move about on these massive boulders.  I swear they look like little monkeys when they hop about.

We walk back a bit and there are tons of butterflies, damsel and dragonflies.  I attempt to take some photos and they thwart me.  I watch and film a babbler for awhile.

It's a really cool area that you can hike about.  There's a certain amount of danger as they are after big rocks that could be slippery, so one should take care just as with any other nature hike.  Any one of these places we visited I could spend days at!

Steve and Alan chase some birds and I sit to read for a while, then we head down the road, this time stopping at Tolga for lunch.  Here I tried another Bundaberg soda, this time Pink Grapefruit.  I haven't managed to try the famous Bundaberg rum yet, but their sodas are good!  I've been getting sleepy so I get a flat white to go and off we go.

We stopped at the Malanda Visitor Center to see if any tree kangaroos had been seen.  There hadn't been, but it was a really cool area.  The center is one of the better ones I have seen, with lots of cool nature exhibits.  It's a sort of modern design, all angles, and in the toilet I visited you wouldn't want to be very tall as the ceiling angles in pretty sharply!

There is beautiful mosaic in the car park, describing the area.  Then, down the steps, you can see the falls, and how they have created a public pool that is filled by the falls, with spillover when it gets too full.  Although it is cool and rainy there are people swimming and picnicking.

As Alan said, he promised me some falls, so we went on then to Millaa Millaa.  Some brave souls are still swimming.  The rock face that the falls, well, fall over, are interesting in formation.  Long vertical blocks of basalt.

Pictures, a few birds, some botany lessons, and we move on from the rain to Lake Eacham to chase mistletoe birds.  These are Steve's nemesis and still they taunt him.  We move on to Lake Barrine.  Steve and Alan moved into the rainforest to seek the tooth-billed bowerbird but I balk.  This is the only place I got leeches before and my ankles don't need any more assault.  I enjoy myself walking around the grounds, looking out at the lake, and sitting in the sun.  They do get the tooth-billed so it is a success.

It's been a long day (Alan must be sick of us!) and so we get takeaway pizza from Nick's and read, write, and watch a little tv (I think the first time this trip).


Yungaburra and The Atherton Tablelands - Dec 18, 19, 20

Upon arrival back from Undara we checked into the Kookaburra Lodge in Yungaburra.  We had to drop Chillagoe Caves from our itinerary but this left us with two full days and three nights here, which wasn't hard to swallow at all.  We could spend quite a bit of time in the Atherton Tablelands, and Yungaburra is a very pleasant village.

After lots of early mornings, it turns out the sun doesn't rise until 5:40 in the tablelands, so we woke too early at 4:30.  We quickly adapted though and took advantage of the extra hour of sleep.  Breakfast is included in the very reasonable rate here, and served on the table in front of our rooms.  We ate each morning at 7:15, watching butterflies and enjoying the garden.

Wednesday
On Wednesday I decided to stay put, and sent Steve and Alan off for a full day of birding.  I read, wrote, and chased a few butterflies in the garden.  The highlight of my day was seeing the Cairns Birdwing!  There were lots of Bordered Rustic butterflies and a metallic emerald green beetle called the Christmas beetle.

About one I took a walk through the village, looking for lunch.  I stopped in at the  Lake Eacham Hotel.  I figured out the part about ordering at the bar, but didn't realize I had to pick up my own cutlery.  The runner brought me my lunch, but no fork or knife!  I had to go ask another diner what to do.

From there I poked my head in at the bakery, stopped at the pharmacy to have them take a look at my ankles, and looked around a homewares/gift shop, resisting the urge to buy anything.  I needed some cash and had been pointed up to the post office.

I came upon the bowls club and stood and watched a bit and a woman said to me 'are you thinking of taking up the game?"  I answered that I didn't actually know what it was, and she said 'Oh, are you an American?' and immediately made her way over to me to explain what bowls is, how there are some intricacies to it, and it is a great game!  Then we chatted about where I was from, how happy she was to see American tourists, that they didn't get many, and so on.  It was a pleasant little interlude.

No luck at the PO, but I kept wandering around, looking at the shops and buildings, then made my way to the Gem Shop.  There some really beautiful stones but again I resisted the urge to buy.  But we had a nice chat.  Next to Foodway (cash machine there!) to buy some water and a few other things, poked my head in the bookshop, then back to the lodge for a cup of tea and more hanging out on the veranda.

Steve came back and topped my one Cairns Birdwing with several plus a Ulysses out on Mundy road.  Darn him.

The Nocturnal Tour

A real highlight was going out on the nocturnal tour with Alan.  We meet at the Platypus viewing area at Peterson Creek and a couple from Yorkshire joined us.  Alan spent a few minutes showing us what we would be looking for, then we headed out to the Curtain Fig Tree.  Alan kitted out both Crystal and myself with spotlights, and he of course led the way with his.  We walked down the road scanning the trees.

We got a little rained on, and the critters were uncooperative for awhile, but then we saw first a Brushtail Possum and then a Green Ringtail Possum.  We moved back to the parking area, looking all the while, then there was a short downpour and we took shelter under the info area roof.   We walked around the Curtain Fig Tree and there were cockroaches and a millepede to look at.

Back across the street we got another good look at a green ringtail possum, then back on the parking area side I saw something small move.  Once Alana started looking, there was another green ringtail possum and this one gave quite a show, moving about, using its tail and then eating a fig, dripping juices as it ate.  There was a spectacled fruit bat there as well, and probably what I originally saw move.  So, we obligingly watched it for awhile as well.

Alan gave us warning that if the bat flew over our heads, to duck and cover our heads as they urinate when they take off!

The tree kangaroo remained elusive, but it was an absolutely great night.

Undara Lava Tubes - Monday and Tuesday, December 16 and 17

The Undara Lava Tubes weren't really on my radar for Australia until I read a trip report from a couple of other visitors who made the trek.  I'm so glad they wrote about it, and I'm so glad we went.  It was a fantastic experience.

While lava tubes exist elsewhere in the world, most notably Hawaii, the longest in the world is here in Australia.  It was great to have AlanG with us as well because he was able to provide even more in-depth  information than the guides, and, he brought along a book that I could read about the tubes.

The tubes are creating when the outer edges of a lava flow harden, but the interior continues to flow and push through.  I'm sure that is not the most scientific way to describe it, but if you want to really understand it, here's a site that describes the creation:

http://undara.com.au/about/tunnels-to-a-wildlife-underworld/

Essentially (to me) they become really massive horizontal caves.

It's an interesting setup, where the area is a national park, but the lodge and guiding is a private enterprise.  In this case, the Collins family was there first, and had built the infrastructure (including the transfer and installation of the railway cars for lodging) and doing the tours.  When the gov't was annexing the land for a national park, because of the infrastructure investment they basically couldn't afford to buy them out.  So the Collins family gave them the surrounding land, but was able to keep their private enterprise.

We were there in the wet season, so where normally there are 30 employees running the place, while we were there, there were just 3.  And a fabulous three at that, they were all very very nice.

During our stay we all did the Sunset Tour the first night, and I did the morning tour the next day while Steve and Alan birded.

Sunset Tour

Steve the Guide loaded us all up in a little minivan at 6 to head out for the sunset tour.  This wasn't really so much about the sunset, as it was about the bats!

The ride out to Barkers Cave included lots of looks at Whiptail, Eastern Grey, and Antilopene kangaroos.  This was the first time I had seen Antilopene kangaroos and they really are a muscular, bulky sort.  While the Eastern Grey forepaws (?  are they called forepaws?) as described by Steve the Guide are sort of t-rex, the Antilopene are more the Arnold Schwarzenegger type.

One group of Eastern Grey males started chasing a female while we watched.  She led them on a serpentine path, and it was fun to watch for awhile, but none of the males caught her, and besides, maybe they needed a little privacy, so we moved on.

After we arrived at Barkers Cave, Steve the Guide set up a very nice offering of fruit and cheese, and served us sparkling wine as the sun set and the moon rose.  It was a beautiful night, the sky was clear and the moon full.

Steve the Guide described to us what we were about to see as night fell.  The bats that lived in Barkers cave would begin to flow out.  A hawk would come in and perch on a tree, the first bat would come out and turn left, and the hawk would get its dinner.

Sure enough, we spotted a Collared Sparrow Hawk fly in and start hanging around.  Soon, the first bat comes out, turns left, and boom!  Dinner.  That night, the hawk got two for two.

Again telling us what to expect before we walked down to the cave, Steve the Guide led us to the mouth of the cave.  As it got darker, the flow of the bats grew.  It was really incredible to have the bats pouring out of the cave and and flying all around you.

The hawks weren't the only ones who saw this as an opportunity for dinner.  Snakes hang around the mouth of the cave as well, snagging a few as they fly by.  That night we saw Night Tigers (also known as brown tree snakes or dull eyes) and Children's Python.  There were some on the outer edge of the tube itself, and some hanging from tree limbs overhanging the cave mouth.

Steve the Guide walks us a little farther (further--eek, grammar lessons fail me now), walking under the snakes, so that we are right in the mouth.  He turns the spotlight on a few times so we can see this virtual highway of bats flowing down the tubes.  Truly an incredible sight.

Marion (an Australian from Perth who started hanging out with me) asked what was glowing on the far side of the tube.  This confused Steve the Guide as there isn't ever any fluorescence in the caves.  Eventually they realize that it is the full moon reflecting off the back of the cave as the moon rose.  It got brighter and brighter the higher the moon got.

On the road back, they spotted the coolest little owls, called Boobook owls.  One of them was really struggling to stay on its tree limb, slipping and fluttering, getting in place, then slipping again.  Alan said it was a baby.

The Day Tour

There are limited tours during this off-season, so my only option is a two-hour tour that starts at 10:30.  Steve and Alan went off birding, and I joined Steve the Guide and quite a few others for the ride out to the tubes.

The tubes are amazing.  The sheer size of them doesn't come across in pictures, and I don't know that I can do an adequate job of describing it.  In one tube you could have two trains side by side running on their tracks (and have room to spare) and, you could double deck them.  They are just massive.

It's not just the size that is awe-inspiring, the geological history also amazes.

We visit The Arch, Stephenson's, and one other tube.  There are butterflies everywhere.  Steve the Guide tells us about one tube where there is a lake around the corner, and at certain times of day you can see butterflies, wallabies and birds all lined up to take their turn getting drinks.  The staff only checks on it twice a year (to check water levels) and leave it undisturbed for the wildlife.

Some of the tubes are so high in carbon dioxide that you cannot go in them without breathing apparatus.  This may be why the aborigines thought the tubes were filled with evil spirits - people would enter, and not return.  They have only found evidence of tube occupation by aborigines in one tube, and all that was there were ashes.

And, as it turns out, one of the tubes we would normally be able to into was too high in carbon dioxide that day.  A lot of the tubes have tree roots that have grown through the roof, and because there had been recent rains the roots were giving off carbon dioxide. We were able to stand on a platform at the mouth of the tube, but not go any further.

The Lodge, and Dining

There are several options for staying at Undara.  Campsites, safari tents, the railcars, and now some small cabins.  Because normally it would be quite hot this time of year Alan had booked the cabins in case we needed air conditioning.  As it turned out, we didn't need it but the cabins were really pretty nice.  Each had a small veranda out front and I spent some time there reading, drinking tea, and watching kangaroos.

On Tuesday morning at one point there were eight kangaroos right in front of my cabin.  There were males, females, and a little joey.  They grazed a little, but then several of them scratched up a bit of dirt and settled in for a snooze.  I watched the momma groom her joey for a bit as well.  I got some photos, and some video, and down the road I will get them off my camera and post them.

There is a nice pool to use (didn't get the chance) and the dining/bar are is very nice.  It's a huge area, covered with a really high roof but open otherwise.  Around the edges they do have some of the railway cars for dining.  We ate our meals at a table right at the front (since there was no one else there) watching birds and kangaroos go by.

For dinner they gave us two choices, and for breakfast you pretty much got what they served.  It was fine, and actually pretty reasonable--sometimes when there is only one dining option they kind of stick it to you.  That wasn't the case here.  I did have a XXXX Gold with dinner the first day, and it was ice cold and delicious!

Steve the Guide's rules of to live by

Steve the Guide had a few truisms to share!


  • If you are stranded in the wilderness, think of what Bear Grylls would do, then do the exact opposite
  • Don't drink bottled water!
  • Don't eat wild mushrooms!
  • Don't line your campfire with Basalt or River Rock.  It will explode and kill you!
Birds, Butterflies, and Critters of note over the two days

Blue triangles
Big Greasy (Clearwing)
Common Crow
Varied Egg Fly
Full BarredSwallowtail 

Prettyface/Whiptail
Eastern Grey
Antilopene

Night tiger snake
Children's Python

Collared Sparrowhawk
Boobook owl
Golden Bowerbird (Stop at Mt Hypipamee on the way back to Yungaburra)

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Granite Gorge Nature Park, Queensland, Australia

Today (December 19) we visited Granite Gorge, about 12 kilometers from Mareeba.  It's not a nature park in the sense of cages and enclosures.  It's just a privately owned acreage where you can put up a tent, drive in a camper, or rent a small cabin. 

There are cool birds to look for, and, start of the show, Rock Wallabys.  There are absolutely huge (big as a house) boulders of granite, perfect habitate for the wallabys.   Over the years they have become really used to humans so will walk right up to you and eat the wallaby food pellets right out of your hands.

It was really something to be up close and personal with them.  They have tiny little claws, beautiful long eyelashes, and hiss and shove each other around if they think someone is hogging all the attention (and food).

The terrain here was spectacular as well.  And now, I will try to post some pictures and video!




Rock Wallabys and more at Granite Gorge






Wednesday, December 18, 2013

It's a travel day - Fly Brisbane - Cairns, Drive Cairns-Yungaburra-Undara

Monday, December 16

It's moving day.  Up at 4, out the door at 4:30, refilled the car at the gas station across the street and headed to the airport.  Everything easy and smooth, and soon we are on our way to Cairns.  We actually get a (light) meal on the plane.  Greek yogurt with rhubarb, and sliced apples.  I ate Steve's yogurt, he ate my apples.  It all works out.

Easy pickup of the car.  I still can't believe they let Alan (our guide for the next four days) come in and give them a copy of his driver's license so that he could drive for some of the time.  There wasn't any extra charge either.  Plus, Hertz is the only one who lets you drive on unsealed roads up here.  Suddenly, I'm a big fan of Hertz.

Off we go.  There's some rain, but this is the wet season, and we are headed up into more rainforest, so you can't complain.  We take the Gilles Hwy to Yungaburra--The Long and Winding Road, Part III.  Yet another spectacular drive.  There's lots of roadwork, so plenty of opportunity to stop and look at the view!

Someone had taken rock graffiti to a new level.  One large boulder was painted like a big green frog with ruby red lips outlining a cleft in the rock.  Later there is a black and white dogwood flower looking painting.

We found Alan Gillanders' place easily once we got to Yungaburra and he kindly served us a snack of apple cake and open sandwiches with salmon and cheese--and coffee for me!  What a guy.

We had spent a short 4 hours with Alan back in 2007 and had such a good time that we engaged him for four days for this trip.  He's a great birder, but really a great overall naturalist and points out all manner of flora and fauna.  Plus, he's a super nice and funny guy.  So if you are planning a trip to this area, I would have a hard time recommending anyone more highly than Alan.

It was time to get back in the car and head to Undara.  It was fascinating to watch the landscape change again.  We made a few short stops, once for a light lunch, two times for a few looks at birds.  The last place we stopped, a rest area, there were butterflies absolutely everywhere.  I felt like I was in a butterfly sanctuary.

Well, it's posting interruptus as we need to head out for a nocturnal tour now.  I'll finish up this day later.

Dotties Dinky Di Tucker

Finally!  I got the picture to load.  This is the postcard of the rest area we kept stopping at.  The proprietress was just so nice, and we had several chats with her.

It says Dotties Dinky Di tucker.

It's a BP gas station.

And I believe Oman-Ama is something like head of the fish.

But we just kept calling it the Obama rest stop cause it had all the letters.

(and we are Obama supporters so if you are not, keep any snide comments to yourself, okay?)

It's Sunday, and the first birds of the day are Apostle Birds--is this a sign?

It's Sunday, December 15 and we are up at 4 am.  We took a little more time to get going though, but soon were headed back out the Cunningham Highway to Mosquito Creek Road.  Very little traffic at 5-6 am on a Sunday!  But, again, the road crews were working.  We were so surprised to see the road crews working on Saturday, and there they were again on Sunday.  I'm hoping they got serious overtime pay!

We turned down the road, and the first birds we saw were Apostle Birds--appropriate for a Sunday.

Soon we had Yellow-billed and Black-billed Spoonbills--in the same spot so you could really see the size differences.  Straw-necked ibis also made an appearance.

We had the same birds, but the goal for Steve was always better video.  Originally he meant to leave at 11 am to head for Brisbane and make some stops on the way, but he started getting such good looks that we stuck around.

I took a long walk down the road to stretch my legs, and looked at butterflies and birds along the way--Meadow Argus, Orchard Swallowtail, Caper Whites, all the finches, and the wrens.

Eventually we headed back out, with a final stop at the Omanama rest area.  After our initial stop at Gore, this became our shop of choice and I had been in and out several times over the past two days, getting sandwiches, water, chips, etc.  We picked up some water for the road, and had a final chat with the woman there.

As we were leaving, she says hold on, and gives me a postcard as a memento.  (as soon as I can figure out this blog I'll get it posted, darn it!)

The road to Brisbane

At last we need to get going to Brisbane.  We turn off that Cunningham Hwy at Karara down the Leyburn Cunningham Road.  And immediately see a sign for Neighborhood Watch.  There are no houses to be seen.  Who's Watching?  And, who ARE they watching?

Then we see an emu, really close to the road!  That is eight for this trip, where I had only seen a couple in the distance on previous trips.  It's a wildlife extravaganza.

Leyburn is a neat little town.  I had tried to reach people at the motel/cabins there and never could.  We drove through, just to take a look, and it looked like they were open, so not sure what happened there.  There's a nice hotel, some shops, a rest area that we had stopped at in the past a few times.  There's some historical significance from WWII where troops were trained here.

Again, lots and lots of beautiful country as we head for Toowoomba.  Forest gives way to more farmland eventually.  All is very green, with beautiful vistas.

After Toowoomba we head down the Warrego Highway towards Brisbane.  Lordy, what a drive.  Roadwork narrows the lanes to one each way, then opens up, then narrows, then opens up.  All the way to Brisbane.  It may be still work from the floods three years ago, hard to tell.  But I would not want to be a commuter on that highway, which I think is the main highway between Toowoomba and Brisbane.  Just miserable.

We made two stops, at Helidon and Gatton, but not much to be found and we wanted to hit the Sherwood Arboretum in Brisbane before dark.  The arboretum isn't huge, and it was great to see it filled with families picnicking and playing ball.

Steve got really good video of red-backed fairy wrens here.

On to the hotel, and dinner, and to bed, as yes, we again had to get up at 4 am the next morning.





Emus, Butterflies, and White Winged Fairy Wrens

Saturday, December 14 was a very good day.

Up at 4 and headed straight out to Mosquito Creek Road.  By 9 am we had whitewinged fairy wrens, emus, superb fairy wrens, tons of butterflies, cisticola (sp?  will get later on Steve's bird list), white-necked herons, kookaburras, apostle birds, zebra finches, double-barred finches.

The highlight, though, was the white-winged fairy wrens.  This was pretty much our only chance to see them as they were at the far edge of their range.

We saw two emus fairly quickly once we turned onto Mosquito Creek Road.  We were far, far away from them but the minute we stopped they started walking away, eventually starting to run in their loping gait.  Through the binoculars, it was kind of cool to see their feathers bouncing as they ran.

Later in the day we decided to take a longer drive down the road.  It passes through a lot of terrain, and a fair amount of open range.  Soon we saw three more emu--the count was five--in one day!  Eventually we turned around, and then saw two more!  This time, close enough to clearly see all the colors around their necks and face.

Total emu count for the day - 7!

The entire day we only had two people pass us on this road--and one of the stopped to make sure we were okay.  It's rugged country.  I don't think you pass a stopped car without checking on them.

Eventually we decided to head back over to Durakai (means scrubby place) for the evening bird show.  But all day long I had been trying to check out the Coolmunda Olive growing operation.  Every once in awhile I would drive to the end of Mosquito Creek Road to see if the gate was open, it never was.  So, as we headed back down the Cunningham Highway, we saw another entrance!  So I turned around and we drove in.

No, I never could find the store, but the turn was a good one because up the drive Steve spotted Turquoise Parrots!  Absolutely incredible colors.  So Steve got a little video, and back to Durakai we went.

We decided to go back to Warwick and stay one more night rather than going to Toowomba.  I called up the Comfort Inn, and off we went.

I think Warwick must be the city of roses.  There were rose gardens everywhere, and roses lining the city center streets.  It's the business center of the regional area they are in.  We took a short drive through the center.  It has the low buildings, angle in parking, and wide median strips of trees and flowers that we have seen in other Australian country towns.  There's a distinct "look."

We were the only ones in the place.  The restaurant was closed, and we were too late for room service--until I asked.  And Colleen kindly opened up the kitchen and made us two very nice dinners of Barramundi and Salad (me) and t-bone and chips (Steve).

I followed this up with a swim in their saltwater pool, very refreshing.  Steve and I walked to the bottle shop next door where there was one refrigerated unit of water and soda, and row upon row of beer, wine and liquor.  It was a little bit the equivalent of the Texas Beer Barn as you could also do drive through.

It was our last night in Warwick, and a pleasant evening indeed.

Tired Drivers Die!

It seems that the Cunningham Highway is a dangerous place for tired drivers.  There was a concentrated campaign to encourage drivers to rest, with sign, after sign, after sign.  It's unlikely we should have been amused by it all, but we were.  I couldn't grab them all, but each of the below were different signs along the highway (or series of sign) that we saw over the days we drove up and down.


  • Driver Reviver (referring to rest stops up ahead)
  • Rest, or RIP
  • Refresh, Revive, Survive
  • Tired Drivers Die!
  • Are we there yet? 2 more hours to Brissy Kids, Rest, Refresh, then Drive (a series--in fluorescent colors!)
  • Rest, Drive, Survive
  • Passenger, is your Driver Alert?
  • Survive the Drive
  • Country Drivers Get Tired Too

Friday the 13th!

It certainly didn't feel like an unlucky day.

We were up at 4:30 am, had a cup of tea at the table in front of the rooms, and we were on our way.  This time we were headed out of Warwick on 42/the Cunningham Highway toward Goondiwindi (I just wanted to type that, and I like to say it too---Goondiwindi!  Go ahead, you know you want to).

After one false turn into the forest, we found the place we were looking for.  The false turn was still interesting though as we bumped our way through the Eucalypt forest.

But, the place we wanted has a small pond that we had visited in 2007, and where Steve could find Yellow-Tufted Honeyeaters to film.  He's zeroed into that, and I just relaxed.  I took a nap, I read for awhile, I chased some butterflies, mainly Black Jezebels and Caper Whites, one Australian Painted Lady, a Monarch, and I think a Sword Grass Brown.  I got good looks at a white necked heron, and lots of red brow finches.  Oh, and Yellow Tufted Honeyeaters of course.

Later we headed up to Coolmunda Dam.  Steve was looking for white winged fairy wrens, but no luck. Got a few more butterflies, but then decided to move on over to Mosquito Creek Road where there were prickly pears as big as trees.  Are they native to Australia?

Eventually Steve gave up here and we headed back to Durakai for the evening show of birds.  We stopped at the Gore rest area, where we had stopped with Bill Jolly in 2007.  It's a bit worn, and the chicken burgers were....not good.  It's for sale though, if anyone's looking.  We were confused though by the three different for sale (or selling) signs from three different estate agents.  How do you choose??

Random notes:

Road Train Count for the day= 3

For no apparent reason, two motor bikes were hoisted on poles along the highway, kinds of like heads on a pike.

The fine for Rabbit keeping is $44,000 y'all.  Why not $45K?  or $40K?  How did they come up with $44K?

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Roadtrip to Warwick, Australia

We left Lamington National Park about 2 pm and headed down the mountain.  We went via Beaudesert out to the Cunningham Highway.  Really beautiful country, and Beaudesert appears to be horse country.  Tons of racing stables, parks, and ranches.

We went up over the dividing range, so again, lots of varying ecozones.  Up near the top we stopped at a national park/rest area, Main Range National Park, for a little break.

We stepped out of the car, and oh my!  Bell Miners!  It was incredible to hear them.  I recorded them, but am having trouble getting the audio to post.

Then I spotted three male Satin Bowerbirds with their violet eyes and glossy satin feathers.  No luck finding the bowers.

We were in high mountain valleys now, and drove through some afternoon squalls, finally reaching Warwick about 5 and checked into the Comfort Inn there.  Another sort of 50s style place, a true motor inn.  Cinderblock style walls, a sort of cobblestone forecourt.  But, very clean, big rooms, a great shower, and about the nicest people ever running the place.  And, rosebushes blooming in front of all the rooms.

We had a little time before the restaurant opened so we took off to find a lake Steve wanted to check out.  We didn't find it (took a wrong turn) but we did go down a really beautiful country road for awhile, stopping occasionally to look at birds.  No cars until a pickup came our way, stopping to make sure we were all right and no car trouble before moving on.  I explained Steve was a bird watcher and they nodded and moved on.

The little restaurant attached to the hotel was good, and we were the only ones there.  Peter explained that most people seem to just prefer room service, although the older guests tend to come to the restaurant more for the company.  His clientele is such that he is completely booked during the week, but rarely has guests on the weekend!

We were reminded that beetroots (not my favorite) seem to be on everything here, and Steve picked off his chicken sandwich and I picked out of my salad.  Pineapple too, but I like that!  I ate Steve's and mine!

Miscellaneous Observations for the Day


  • Funniest highway sign--Ignore GPS!  Follow 90 to Beaudesert
  • Warwick has a velodrome!  We did a doubletake as we saw somone riding on it.
  • Pie shops - advertising  Meat and Sweet Pies, or Steak and Fruit Pies (I am assuming they are not in the same pies!)





My sister wants to see some pictures

Although I don't think these are the kinds she meant!


Bordered Rustic - All over the place outside my veranda in Yungaburra.


December 10, 11, 12 - LNP Part II

Miscellaneous bits about our time at LNP

Things that made me laugh


  • Sign on the road between Canungra and Lamington National Park Road - Horse Poo for Sale, $2.00/bag.  But if you drive a little further there is a sign offering horse manure for free.  So, is poo a grade better than manure?  Why would you pay if you can get if for free?  These are the things you ponder at 5 am while driving.
  • 20 some pretty face kangaroos lounging about on what I like to call Pretty Face Bend, looking for all the world like Romans relaxing after a feast, or A Sunday on La Grande Jatte
  • A pair of pretty face kangaroos boxing one morning as we came around the bend
  • Double-crossing road--said best in the voice of James Cagney--why you dirty double-crossing road.
Scary stuff

  • There is a treetop walk off one of the tracks.  It is wooden, and creaky, and sways a bit.  I had managed to walk it the last time we visited, but was too scared to look down.  I told myself I wasn't afraid, and walked it again.  Turns out telling yourself you are not afraid does not mean you are actually unafraid.
  • A storm rolled in the afternoon of the 11th.  We could see it coming so left to get down LNP road before it hit.  I did NOT want to drive that road in the rain.  It spit a little, but we made it down the mountain to Canungra, and stopped to look at a map for the next day's drive.  Looked up, the wind started howling, we could see forked lightening up in the mountains, and the front bearing down.  We still had a very winding, narrow road to get up to Aaronlee.  The rain was fierce once it hit (we didnt' make it in front of it) and I couldn't figure out the windshield wipers on the rental car!  So Steve had to hold it in place as I drove, very slowly, up the Mt Tamborine road.  There is a section that is one lane, and a traffic signal cycles automatically every 5 minutes to let traffic through.  That was one time I was happy to come to a stop so we could get the wipers working.
  • Driving back up the mountain the next day playing dodge rock from all the rock falls resulting from the storm the night before--and hoping no one was coming the other way 
Cool Bird Stuff

Bower Birds
Bower birds are amazing.  For non-birders - bower birds build elaborate bowers to attract the females.  They aren't nests, more of a boudoir.   The Satin Bowerbird will decorate their bower with anything they can find in shades of blue--flowers, straws, bottlecaps, etc.  The Great Bowerbird will decorate in shades of white, and the shape of the bower is completely different.  Incredible to see.

There are always some Satin Bower Bird Bowers around O'Reilly's, and I saw pretty much all of them I think.  One afternoon I was sitting at a picnic table located near one of them, and glanced up to see the male bringing in a blue straw and attending to his bower.  I managed to sneak over and hang out and get a little video, and yes I will post it much later, after I have access to a PC.  

There weren't as many Regent BowerBirds around this time, but finally some of the males showed up.  We kept watching one of the females, and finally saw her pick up something and fly into a tree across the road?  Nesting material?  Food for a baby?  Let's go look!  And Steve was able to locate the nest.  Very cool.

So, like I said, I think bowerbirds are really cool and there is this beautiful book about bowerbirds that I really wanted.  It was published in Australia and I couldn't get it in the US.  Somehow a discussion about this book came up on the 4WD tour.  Conversation went like this:

Me:  I really wanted that book.
Glen:  How badly do you want the book?
Me:  I really want the book.
Glen:  I might have a line on the book.

So, it turns out that he had a photo in the book so they had given him one, and he was willing to sell it to me.  The transaction is in process.

Lyrebirds, whipbirds, riflebirds

For our birding friends, I'll post Steve's list later when he can read it off to me.

Some notables for me though:

Very excited to see the female Albert's Lyrebird and her chick (a year old or so now, bit of a mama's boy and we got to see her feeding him.

The Riflebird!  I got a very good look, got to see the brilliant blue.

Whipbird--Glen had really tamed this bird and it came when he showed up on his walks.  Got great looks a them.

Stories people tell you

I had been talking on and off over the three days to a woman named Melissa, who was visiting from Brisbane.  One time, she told me a dreamtime story, that goes something like this.  There was a beautiful, colorful bird, and the bird sang beautifully.  It was so beautiful, and its song was so sweet, that everyone praised the bird and the bird grew prideful.

Now only the black and white birds have sweet songs, and the colorful birds have horrible squawking songs.

We had to move on, and left Lamington National Park at about 2 on the 12th of December.

I just saw a Cairns Birdwing!

I am so excited!  I'm sitting on my veranda in Yungabarra, and darned if I didn't see this gigantic butterfly.  It's as big as your hand, and strikingly beautiful.  Here's a link:

http://www.trc.qld.gov.au/environment/cairns-birdwing-butterfly-fo

I'll never get a photo, so that's as good as it will get!



(the photo from the site)

December 10, 11, 12 - Lamington National Park - Part 1

We had decided to stay at Aaronlee Retreat rather than O'Reilly's because we wanted to visit both Binna Burra and the Green Mountain section of Lamington NP.  Staying at Aaronlee should have meant we could decide one day to drive up to BB, and one day up to GM.  The one day delay derailed those plans and we spent each day driving up to the Green Mountain section.

The Long and Winding Road - again

For those of you not familiar, Lamington National Park is World Heritage Rainforest just a little south and west of Brisbane, Australia.  It's rugged country, and spectacularly beautiful.  American troops used to train there during WWII, both for the tropical rainforest conditions and the extremely steep and rugged terrain.

Lamington National Park Road, starting from Canungra, is curve after curve of often one-lane, sometimes two-lanes (although that's a bit of a misnomer), for about 45 minutes up the mountain.  I got to drive a medium size SUV up that road three days!  Yay!  After the first trip I was okay, but that first one was a white-knuckler for sure.

When my eyes weren't glued to the road, the drive included stunning views, lots of kangaroos--49 pretty-face kangaroos on one day--and a fascinating progression from eucalyptus forest to tropical rainforest.

4WD Excursions with Michael and Glen

Birders know about O'Reilly's, and that is of course why we are here (I keep forgetting some people won't know about these places.  O'Reilly's is a mountain lodge perched at the top of the mountain in the Green Mountain section of Lamington National Park).  It's a fabulous place to see a lot of great
birds.

But, Steve likes it too because when I don't want to bird with him, I can go on some of the excursions through O'Reilly's.  I had emailed O'Reilly's before we left the US and had asked if I could still join the excursions even though we weren't staying there and they said yes (if I paid of course).

I did two of their 4wd excursions.  I was lucky enough to have Michael O'Reilly (78 and still going strong) and Glen (can't remember his last name) on both outings.  Glen's a real story teller, and of course Michael had been there from the beginning, so the trips were both fun and entertaining.

They pile you on, and the story telling begins.  On the way out to wherever you are going that day, they stop and point out all manner of flora an fauna.

Some highlights:

Michael had earlier located a skin shed by a python, so we stopped at an overlook and he climbed down the rocky hillside to see if it was still there.  And it was!  Well over 2 meters, and in excellent shape.  You could see the complete outline of the python's body, including its eyes and jaws.

White-necked Herons riding the thermals.

Rufous fantail

Australian Pippit - we watched for a good long time, trying to see where the momma bird was flying to/from.  Eventually, Glen found the baby in a little cubby in the ground.  It would have been so easy to step on!  Then he found the nest.

Loads of butterflies - Black Jezebel, Australian Painted Lady

Billy Tea

After piling in and out of the caravan a few times, they bring you to a campsite area and serve you tea, telling stories all the while.  Usually they throw some eucalyptus leaves on the fire, and it's very fragrant.  Glen had swiped some pumpkin scones and he split those and grilled them over the fire.

We all then stood around drinking the tea, and eating grilled scones dripping with golden syrup or honey.  Some of us (cough) dripped a little honey on ourselves.

The history, the stories, and the harmonica

The natural wonder of Lamington NP is just that, a wonder.  But the history is pretty interesting as well.  The O'Reilly family had their selection there and ran a dairy operation.  Lamington NP was created, surrounding their private property.  I'm thin on details, but there is some arrangement where they continue to run their business and own their private property, and the National Park offices and campground are right there.  All the walking tracks that you can take are NP.  The places we went on the outings were on private land.

Michael tells stories about growing up there, about being a young boy introduced to American soldiers.  He gets a little side business going with the GIs where he brings them cream from the family dairy--until his father figures out that the receipts are matching up.  There was an incident where he ate a little dynamite, thinking it is hidden lolly.  There's more, of course, but you get the idea.  A great storyteller, and just a really sweet guy.

You get the very strong sense that these two (Michael and Glen) are mischievous no matter their age, and the younger crew of O'Reilly's probably have a lot on their hands trying to keep them in line!

Glen is an accomplished musician, and pulls out his harmonic and plays for us.  Danny Boy, played on the harmonica at the top of the mountain, will bring a tear to your eye.

The Views

It is impossible to describe the views from the lookout areas.  The O'Reilly kids used to call it the Lost World.  Mountains, vertical cliffs, lush foliage.

Up at O'Reilly's in Lamington National Park

The birds are still completely unafraid of you at O'Reilly's in Lamington National Park.  An open car door is just an invitation to visit.


Sunday, December 15, 2013

Things you don't expect to see on your hotel bathroom wall

On the wall of our motel bathroom in Warwick Australia, this picture was hanging.

Christmas isn't Christmas without Bing everyone!


Saturday, December 14, 2013

December 9, 10, 11 - Aaronlee Retreat, Mt. Tamborine

We spent the nights of 9, 10, 11 at Aaronlee Retreat in Mt. Tamborine.  After leaving Lone Pine, we made our way back to the Motorways and eventually to Pacific Hwy.  Nice and smooth, then exited on 57 to the Mt Tamborine-Oxenford road for the long and winding trip up the mountain.  The first of many long and winding roads I would drive the next several days.  On the left side of the road.  nuff said.

Thanks to my Australian pals on Fodors, I knew that Coles would have just about everything we would need for the next few nights, road tripping, and a prepaid phone.  Google Maps had been my friend and we easily located the Coles at Oxenford/Reserve Road and our second encounter with Australian sticker shock began.

It doesn't matter how much we "knew" that it was expensive here.  With the exception of the phone ($29.99!) it was a spendy shopping trip.  But, we had water, fruit, sandwich makings, and the supplies for dinners the next three rooms as Aaronlee is self-catering.

Off we continued up the mountain.  Aaronlee Retreat was a great place to start our stay.  Ponies in the front paddock and an alpaca in the yard in front of our room.  Kangaroos hopping about in the morning, and a kookaburra posing.  The views off the grounds at the back were spectacular, and from the far corner you could see the buildings of the Gold Coast.

Breakfast provisions were stocked in the fridge, with an entire loaf of bread, a dozen eggs, and three packets of really good bacon.

Even better, they left a nice bottle of Chateau Haut Vivianne, Southeastern Australia 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon on the table.  Upon arrival, I poured myself a glass and headed out back to sit on the swing and look at the mountains.


Wifi a challenge, with two places you could connect.  One was at a white picnic table out back, and I hunched over it in the dark trying to get a good enough connection to activate the prepaid phone.  Luckily online chat with Roman at Telstra and we got it going.

Aaronlee Retreat site:  http://www.aaronleeretreat.com.au

Thursday, December 12, 2013

It's 5:15 am and yes I'm up-and showered and dressed and drinking tea

Those of you who know me, know I am not a morning person.  But this is an instance where what little jet lag we have does us good as we get up at 4 or 4:30 and get on our way for birding.  The sun rises about 4:30, but sets early, and we need to get on the road.

We are currently in Warwick, Queensland, where the sun is shining, the sky is blue, and there are roses blooming directly in front of our room.  I'm sitting outside with my cup of tea.  It's hard to get better than this!

It's going to be hard to catchup without the world's longest blog entry.  This may need to be bits and pieces.

Monday, December 9

We landed about 8 am, took forever to get through immigration and customs.  A lady in front of us had a chicken sandwich in bag,  off she went.  This could have been us as we later discovered that Steve had accidentally smuggled a LOOK bar into Australia for me.  I enjoyed it for dessert two nights later.

As on prior trips to Australia, we were pretty perky, but a shower at the airport helped even more, and soon we were on our way.

Except Google Maps failed us again and we spent a lot of not so quality time in downtown Brisbane, which has a plethora of one-way streets and a singular lack of parking spaces (so one can stop and ask directions or buy a map).  At last I found the correct motorway and exit, and fairly soon we made it to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.

The minute we stepped out of the car, Steve spotted a Pacific Baza and filming commenced.  I admit, it is a pretty cool looking bird.  I left him there and headed in to the park.  I had a koala to cuddle.

The koala cuddling is highly regulated, and I was thrilled to have the opportunity.  He was placed in my arms, trailing a strong scent of eucalyptus.  Surprisingly heavy, and a little wiggly as he tore through his leaves and wanted some more.  I think I got to hold him a little longer because it took them awhile to get him to stay still for the photo opp.  I enjoyed every minute.

There are lots of koala "nurseries" and some of the koalas were very active, running about and leaping from limb to limb.  Certainly there were some sleeping as you would expect, but many were more active than I thought they would be.

More later!  Have to go birding now.

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Holding a Koala at Lone Pine Nature Sanctuary

Okay, I'm going to give posting one photo a try.  After 27 hours of travel, and another hour wandering the streets of downtown Brisbane, we finally made our way to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.

I look a little worse for the wear, but the Koala looks great.


Koalas, Kangaroos, Dingos and a Cassowary too

We arrived!  And I would love to show you pictures and tell you all about the last two days, but a lack of speedy internet access prevents that at this time.

While Aaronlee Retreat (our lodging for the first three nights here) is absolutely lovely and peaceful, I can only get wifi by sitting at a big white picnic table out on the grounds.  It's achingly slow, and if more than one person is on it, it is more so.

So, picture if you will, me huddled over my ipad in the dark.

So, more later!

Friday, December 6, 2013

Sad Face, Sitting at Home Instead of on a Plane


The Weather Gods Laughed

Man plans, God Laughs.

The best laid plans of mice and men...


*&*^%%&^R

All appropriately apply to the current situation.  Who would have thought that flying through Dallas would bring weather issues?  Ice storm in Dallas, flights cancelled, just can't get there from here.

So, instead of my nicely planned route of MCI/DFW, 3 hour layover, then 16 hours straight on to Brisbane, we fly to Chicago tomorrow, layover, fly to LAX, layover, then fly to Brisbane, arriving Monday instead of Sunday.

Boo.

Tuesday, November 26, 2013

The Itinerary

Someone (I'm talking to you Fiona) wanted me to post our itinerary, so here it is.

December 6 - Depart KC, fly to DFW, Fly 16 hours direct to Brisbane.

December 8 - Arrive 6 am in Brisbane - Hoping to visit Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary en route to Aaronlee Retreat in Mt Tamborine.  Three nights here, visiting Binna Burra and the Green Mountain areas of Lamington National Park and anything else that draws our attention

December 11-15 - Road trip time, staying in Warwick a few nights, one night Toowomba, Chasing birds

December 15 Brisbane overnight

December 16 fly early morning to Cairns, pick up Alan Gillanders on way out to Chillagoe

December 17 - Chillagoe caves tour, drive to Undara, Sunset tour Undara

December 18 - Undara Lava tubes tour, drive back to Yungaburra, would like to do some of the waterfalls circuit

December 19- more birding with Alan Gillanders day and nocturnal mammals tour night, visit platypus viewing area

December 20 transfer to Kingfisher Lodge, Julatten - birding and critters, visit butterfly sanctuary Kuranda

December 21-22 base at Kingfisher - visit Mareeba, Mossman, Mt. Lewis, Mt. Molloy and whatever strikes our fancy

December 23 transfer to Red Mill House, Daintree Villlage, stay to December 6.  Take snorkeling trip out of Port Douglas, River Tours with Ian Worcester, drive up into Daintree.

December 26th, Overnight Mercure Harborside in Cairns, Steve birding the mangroves, we visit Flecker Botanical Gardens.

December 27th  Fly to Sydney, stay with friends.  During week visit Royal National Park, Capertee Valley, NYE in Sydney

Jan 4 fly home


Saturday, November 23, 2013

Two weeks and we'll be in Brisbane!

All right, blogging it is.  If you would like to follow along, this is how I will be recording this journey, rather than emails, Fodors, and/or Facebook.

That said, the countdown has begun in earnest now. I'm marking more things off the checklist, and I'm about to do a practice packing run to see if I have too much/too little stuff.  My level of panic about getting everything done at work is sky high.

But, I'm really excited!  Plus, it's currently 22 degrees here, and look at this from Brisbane!


We land at 6 am on a Sunday.  Tentative plans are to shower at the airport, pick up the car, and head to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary.  Koala Cuddling will commence.

Between now and then, we have Thanksgiving, and certainly one of the things I am thankful for is that we have these incredible travel opportunities.


Tuesday, November 19, 2013

More Checklist Items Plus, BofA is getting awfully snooty for this small town

Every day I have to check a few more things off the list.  The bank and credit card companies are duly informed of the travel so they don't see strange activity and block my purchases (I'm going to need those cards!).  Stinger suit for snorkeling has been received, and so on.  All scheduled bill payments are ready to go.  So I'm feeling good about things.

(here's the stinger suit I got :
http://www.amazon.com/Storm-Black-Lycra-Scuba-Diving/dp/B001P6EMF2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384919791&sr=8-3&keywords=stinger+suit)



We will be using a personal guide for some of the trip, birdwatching and wildlife watching.  He's great, we spent 1/2 day with him before.  This year we are using him for 4 days, plus I need to pay for lodging and tours at one of the locations.  He doesn't take credit cards, and I don't want to carry that much cash.

So, I headed up to my local BofA branch to arrange a wire transfer.  There have been lots of changes there lately, and honestly I don't think they are all for the best.  It's not exactly your friendly hometown bank anymore.  I live in a fairly rural area, and we expect friendly.  So, I can't just do it.  I have to make an appointment to do it.

I'm pretty sure I can just head over to Wal-Mart and do it by walking up to the counter I made the appt at BofA, but I don't really understand them making it hard to do business.

Saturday, November 16, 2013

Checking things off the pre-trip checklist

My husband says that I enjoy planning trips more than actually taking them.  That's not true, I do love the trips, but I get almost as much fun out of the planning.

Less fun, but still necessary, are all the things that need to be taken care of when out of the country for four weeks.   Then add being out of the country over Christmas.

So I need to arrange for all bills to be paid automatically (not too bad really), stop paper, hold mail....and buy and ship Christmas presents.

Luckily we don't have many gifts to buy anymore.  I spent a little quality time online tonight, and I'm done!  Tomorrow will be a wrapping extravaganza and I'll head off to the post office on Monday.

Friday, November 15, 2013

Now a test to see how it looks when multiple photos are loaded at once. Here we have pickled peppers.




We head for Australia 3 weeks from today.  By this time 3 weeks from now we will be sitting in the DFW airport waiting for our 16 hour flight.  I can't wait!

Rather than posting a trip report via Fodors.com which is what I have always done in the past, I'm thinking about blogging instead.  I've never blogged before, and know nothing about it, so this is a trial balloon.

This will be our third trip to Australia, and our longest yet.  Getting 4 weeks off of work at one time took a lot of doing, and I am sure they won't allow it again so we need to make the most of it.

What do we do?  My husband is an avid birdwatcher, so that consumes a lot of our time.  We are primarily interested in the natural wonders of Australia.  So, birdwatching, bushwalking, snorkeling and seeking out native Australian critters.

I also have a good friend in Sydney, so we will head down there for our last week of vacation, and will be there over New Year's Eve, which is pretty exciting.

All right, let's publish this and see what happens!