And so it ends. An absolutely fantastic trip concludes.
Staying up so late the night before meant we needed to pack this morning, so we had to scuttle plans for breakfast. So we packed, and had coffee, then headed to the Sydney airport.
Helpful tip--even if you cannot print your tickets, check in online before you go. We were able to stand in the online checkin line and it was MUCH shorter.
We breezed through and had plenty of time for a nice lunch, and made a valiant effort to spend the rest of our Australian cash. We had our preferred seats in the back of the plane, plenty of room to stretch out. 14 (15?) hours and 3 or 4 (I lost track) movies later, we landed in Dallas Fort Worth. Global Entry paid off and we whisked through passport control and customs...but you still have to wait for your luggage and go through security again for the domestic flight.
Our fabulous pals Randy and Bea were there waiting for us and drove us home on the slick roads. It was a brutal shock to traipse down the hill to the house through snow in my flip flops. That was cold darn it!
About blogging the trip
I'm not sure I'm crazy about this format. I thought it would be easier than compiling a trip report for the travel site I participate in, and also writing emails to my family (who claim to actually like reading them) about the trip.
But, it was more difficult than I thought, mainly a time and access thing. I only took my ipad and I found a lot of things difficult with blogspot on the ipad. Loading pictures especially was a pain. We didn't have internet every night, and even when we did we had such long days that a lot of times I was too beat to take the time to write. Once someone suggested Blogger that helped as I could write offline and publish later.
But, as you can see, I ended up writing a ton of it AFTER I got home, and loading more pics.
What's next
I might post a few more miscellaneous things. And now that this is done I will finish truly processing my photos. When that's done I might come back and post a link.
Saturday, January 25, 2014
January 3 - Can it already almost be over?
The answer is yes, yes it can. This is our last full day in Australia. 4 weeks went by sooooo quickly.
There is some haze outside, and we can smell something burning. We never did see smoke, but something was definitely burning somewhere in the Capertee valley.
I took a short video off the veranda in front of the cottage, scanning from left to right. This was our view that morning:
We hated to say goodbye, but managed to be in the car and on our way by 6:30 am. We were hoping to make it to Sydney by noon so I could spend some time with Fiona.
I got a great final sendoff as far as wildlife. As we drove down the roads away from the farm, we spotted a mob of absolutely huge Eastern Grey kangaroos. These ere big boys. You could see the power in their chests and hindlegs. There was also a female with a joey in her pouch.
Then further along the turnoff towards Kandos I got to see a live wombat bounding across the road and off into the woods! Since so far I had only seen two dead wombats ( :-( ) I was happy to see this one. They really do look like a little black bear when they are bounding away from you.
We had taken a different route into Kandos, trying to avoid rough roads with the little car. Always interesting to see new countryside. We passed forest, fields, and wineries. Once in Kandos we found our way through town on the main road, and I saw another opportunity for a flat white, so we stopped at the same little grocery as the day before and I picked up a coffee, then we were on our way.
We were headed now back to Lithgow, but via a different route. More really beautiful countryside, and we appear to be at a fairly high elevation. There were fields with granite boulders the size of houses, tumbling down hillsides just like children's blocks.
There were also some signs that perplexed us. They simply said Fog Sign. and Snow Sign.
Okay, yes, they are signs, but is that not inferred from the fact that they are, well, signs? What are these signs for? To warn you that there might be fog? or snow? I guess so, but it just seemed so odd. I should have taken pictures.
We stop at Lake Wallace in Lithgow for some birding, and a pretty flower or two.
On our way again, we head back through the Blue Mountains, and stop at Evans Lookout again. The skies had been blue, but as we approached the lookout, fog descended (should have had a fog sign). There still some birds, and butterflies, and flowers, and eventually the fog started lifting.
We needed to get back on the road if we were going to make Sydney by noon, so got back on the highway. We still didn't make it by noon...traffic was terrible, and there was a lot of roadwork. We didn't get lost though, so that was a plus.
The rest of the day? Visiting with Fiona, washing a few clothes so we had clean clothes to travel in, and a traipse over to Paddy's Market to see if Steve could find more Australia hats, and we wanted to see if we could find a few souvenirs.
It was fun walking through Darling Harbour, it was packed with people. Lots of families, lots of kids playing, buskers doing their work. Steve and Fiona are giants with very long legs and took the walk at a trot. I was hard put to keep up :-(
We arrived at Paddy's market starving (at least I was) and had a bite in the food court. I have to say that mine at least was definitely above normal food court fare--Thai Basil Chicken that was decent.
Now for shopping. Sometimes I just have to be in the mood for places like Paddy's Market, and I was having a hard time getting in the swing of things. (for Tacoma Peeps, Steve described it as almost an Australian B&I--for the rest of you, too hard to explain) It was crowded and hot, and I just wasn't seeing anything I liked.
I wanted some tea towels, but just couldn't get close enough to even ask about them. Finally we picked up a couple of things and made our way back to the shops near the Pyrmont foot bridge, and had a lot better luck there.
I'm not sure I remember the rest of the afternoon!
But, we went back out that evening for dinner with Fiona and Mark, walking back to Darling Harbour, more people watching, and finally eating at The Meat & Wine Company--a fabulous meal. We wandered back, then back out on the balcony overlooking the Harbour Bridge, drinking wine and talking into the wee hours.
There is some haze outside, and we can smell something burning. We never did see smoke, but something was definitely burning somewhere in the Capertee valley.
I took a short video off the veranda in front of the cottage, scanning from left to right. This was our view that morning:
We hated to say goodbye, but managed to be in the car and on our way by 6:30 am. We were hoping to make it to Sydney by noon so I could spend some time with Fiona.
I got a great final sendoff as far as wildlife. As we drove down the roads away from the farm, we spotted a mob of absolutely huge Eastern Grey kangaroos. These ere big boys. You could see the power in their chests and hindlegs. There was also a female with a joey in her pouch.
Then further along the turnoff towards Kandos I got to see a live wombat bounding across the road and off into the woods! Since so far I had only seen two dead wombats ( :-( ) I was happy to see this one. They really do look like a little black bear when they are bounding away from you.
We had taken a different route into Kandos, trying to avoid rough roads with the little car. Always interesting to see new countryside. We passed forest, fields, and wineries. Once in Kandos we found our way through town on the main road, and I saw another opportunity for a flat white, so we stopped at the same little grocery as the day before and I picked up a coffee, then we were on our way.
We were headed now back to Lithgow, but via a different route. More really beautiful countryside, and we appear to be at a fairly high elevation. There were fields with granite boulders the size of houses, tumbling down hillsides just like children's blocks.
There were also some signs that perplexed us. They simply said Fog Sign. and Snow Sign.
Okay, yes, they are signs, but is that not inferred from the fact that they are, well, signs? What are these signs for? To warn you that there might be fog? or snow? I guess so, but it just seemed so odd. I should have taken pictures.
We stop at Lake Wallace in Lithgow for some birding, and a pretty flower or two.
On our way again, we head back through the Blue Mountains, and stop at Evans Lookout again. The skies had been blue, but as we approached the lookout, fog descended (should have had a fog sign). There still some birds, and butterflies, and flowers, and eventually the fog started lifting.
 |
| A view from Evans Lookout in the Blue Mountains |
We needed to get back on the road if we were going to make Sydney by noon, so got back on the highway. We still didn't make it by noon...traffic was terrible, and there was a lot of roadwork. We didn't get lost though, so that was a plus.
The rest of the day? Visiting with Fiona, washing a few clothes so we had clean clothes to travel in, and a traipse over to Paddy's Market to see if Steve could find more Australia hats, and we wanted to see if we could find a few souvenirs.
It was fun walking through Darling Harbour, it was packed with people. Lots of families, lots of kids playing, buskers doing their work. Steve and Fiona are giants with very long legs and took the walk at a trot. I was hard put to keep up :-(
We arrived at Paddy's market starving (at least I was) and had a bite in the food court. I have to say that mine at least was definitely above normal food court fare--Thai Basil Chicken that was decent.
Now for shopping. Sometimes I just have to be in the mood for places like Paddy's Market, and I was having a hard time getting in the swing of things. (for Tacoma Peeps, Steve described it as almost an Australian B&I--for the rest of you, too hard to explain) It was crowded and hot, and I just wasn't seeing anything I liked.
I wanted some tea towels, but just couldn't get close enough to even ask about them. Finally we picked up a couple of things and made our way back to the shops near the Pyrmont foot bridge, and had a lot better luck there.
I'm not sure I remember the rest of the afternoon!
But, we went back out that evening for dinner with Fiona and Mark, walking back to Darling Harbour, more people watching, and finally eating at The Meat & Wine Company--a fabulous meal. We wandered back, then back out on the balcony overlooking the Harbour Bridge, drinking wine and talking into the wee hours.
Saturday, January 18, 2014
Day Two in the Capertee Valley 2 January 2014
It's a bit dark, so Steve lets me sleep awhile, and we get up about 6:30, pack up the car, and are on our way. We will be staying at a self-catering cottage that night, so we will need something to make for dinner, although they will provide breakfast provisions, and we will need something for the day. We are down to 1 sandwich, 1 banana, and 1 egg.
We head into Kandos hoping the IGA will be open, but no luck. It's not open until 9. We start to head out of town, looking for a service station where we can buy some overpriced water and junk food, when we spot people going in and out of Alan Jackson's General Store.
Pretty limited options but we end up with a frozen pizza for Steve for dinner that night, and pasta and sauce for me. Picked up some lunch items, water and pop to round out the shopping trip...and then I spot a coffee machine! That will generate a flat white for me. And, it's right beside a meat pie case. Two meat pies and a flat white later, we are on the road again.
Oh, and they had this.
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Really Australia?
Glen Alice Farm and Cloister Cottage
We consider driving back to Rylestone where we had spotted a Westpac ATM (no fees as we are with BofA in the US) but Steve has discovered some cash in his wallet and we have $60 AUD between us, so we figure we are okay. Oops, as you will find out in a moment.
Diane at Glen Alice Farm has given me directions, and told me the cottage will be unlocked so we can come and go as we please, and drop off our groceries before we start the day. So we set off through the valley, making a few birding stops along the way, and find the turnoff to Glen Alice Farm. It looks a little familiar, and shortly we discover a creek where we had birded back in 2007. Unfortunately the water was pretty low, so not much going on.
We proceed, slowly, to the farm and the cottage. (I am driving Fiona's car, which is quite low to the ground. The roads will be paved, then inexplicably not paved. And even the paved ones will go from smooth to rough in a minute. Rather anxious about her car, I err on the side of caution and let's just say the driving was pretty leisurely!)
Roger and Di Page are the hosts at Glen Alice Farm, and they have a self-catering one-bedroom cottage on the property called Cloister Cottage. We unpack the car, and Di spots us and comes on over. She is absolutely delightful and we enjoy chatting...but it turns out they don't take credit cards!
I didn't think to ask the night before, and she didn't think to tell me. We should have made that Rylestone stop after all. We will get it all worked out.
The cottage is very nice and comfortable, and has a wonderful view.
Settled in to the cottage, with new batteries for the ceiling fans, we head back out for some birding.
Glen Alice
We spend a fair amount of time at Glen Alice. Please understand that when I say Glen Alice, this is not a town. On one side of the spot in the road is a cemetery and church. On the other side of the road is a community hall, school, and bushfire shed. But, there is some public space land where there are birds to be seen.
The cemetery and church are interesting. The land for both had been donated for that use by an early settler. The little (and I do mean little!) church is still in use today. Services are still held by different denominations on alternate Sundays. It's a wooden building that has been sided with a metal embossed to look like stone.
The cemetery has graves dating back into the 1800s, as well as more recent graves. It is always poignant to read the memorials, some of them infants, others long-lived, some of them young soldiers, others spouses where one has gone long before. There are tributes on many of the graves, and I see a cat figurine tipped over, and set it upright.
The original cemetery has been plotted out by ethnicity--Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Church of England, Wesleyans, Indians and Jews.
Not sure if you can see this where this is discussed.
Some views of the cemetery:
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| Some of the older graves. |
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| There are several graves in the near right quadrant, and then quite a space to the next set of graves. Maybe another denomination?! I should have walked out there, but didn't. |
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| Another view.
I'm not sure what Steve is chasing, but I'm watching lots of Superb Fairy Wrens, which I love, then I decide to cross over to the community hall.
That's the green building across the street behind our fun little convertible for the two days.
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Again there are public toilets, and picnic tables set up, as well as a public telephone as there is no cell service in the Capertee valley. There's also a big bbq and logs on the ground placed in a semicircle, and it looks like they have some sort of activities there. Steve's off in the woods behind this and I set myself up at the picnic table and alternately watch whatever birds come my way, read, and do a little people watching as a few people make a pit stop at this spot in the road.
Back to Glen Davis, then back to Glen Alice, then back to the Cottage
And that is what we did. We went on to Glen Davis, hung out, birded. It was cloudy and windy and the flies were relentless. And still we had a great time!
Made our way back to Glen Alice again, just a very nice spot.
Birded our way back up the road to the cottage, Steve getting some firetails.
Back at the cottage Roger comes over to introduce himself and we discuss how I will pay for the night. They have suggested to us a bank transfer, and this just isn't something we can do easily. It appears that is done all the time in Australia as it had been mentioned before, but, from the US I did pay one person by wire and it cost me $45 USD.
I could give him my $60 and once back in Sydney give the remainder to my friend and ask her to send a check. I could drive back into Rylestone to the ATM, but that would be at least an hour round trip, and not preferred. But, I then realized that perhaps I could call Fiona and see if she could send a check...and Roger brilliantly says, why don't you call and have her do a bank transfer? (since of course this seems fairly common in Australia.)
Whew, I called Fiona and wonderful friend that she is, she did the bank transfer that very night.
As I mentioned above, the cottage is very comfortable. Most self-catering places say they have a fully stocked kitchen...they have never met Di! I think there was every possible type of utensil and appliance available. Usually there is something critical missing like a colander or a spatula.
Di has also stocked it for breakfast, with milk, juice, coffee, tea, cereals, eggs, bacon, bread, and banana bread! Oh, and fruit!
Steve birded down the road, I sat on the nice bench on the front veranda and just enjoyed the view and the sounds of being in the country. After dinner, we both went out and sat out there again, even in the dark. It was so peaceful and restful.
Friday, January 17, 2014
What a way to spend the first day of the new year - Blue Mountains and Capertee Valley
Fiona really needed to rest, and we knew she wouldn't if we stuck around. And Steve really wanted to go out to the Capertee valley.
So, we got up about 8:30, made some sandwiches, grabbed some bananas and boiled eggs and packed up our handy little soft-sided cooler. Then Mark took us down to the basement and gave us lessons in taking down the top of the convertible, and putting up the wind shield. Soon we were on our way out of Sydney, headed out over the Anzac bridge and up into the Blue Mountains.
The Blue Mountains
We've been to the Blue Mountains before, including the Three Sisters, Leura, and Scenic World, all great stops.
This time we took the turnoff to go out to Evans Lookout. Steve was looking for the Rock Warbler, and this involves clambering around on rocks with really super steep drop offs. I declined. Instead, I walked around up top, looking out over all the different viewpoints from the lookout.
As I understand it, they are called the blue mountains because of the way all the eucalypt oil hanging in the area give it a blue haze. Here's a better description:
The Blue Mountains is densely populated by oil bearing Eucalyptus trees. The atmosphere is filled with finely dispersed droplets of oil, which, in combination with dust particles and water vapour, scatter short-wave length rays of light which are predominantly blue in colour.
In any case, it was living up to it's name today.
I scrambled around a little bit, but not as much as Steve. Lots of sandstone, and instead of painted graffiti, the stone was soft enough that people just carved inscriptions (e.g., Steve loves Merri).
The Capertee Valley
The Capertee Valley is the world's largest enclosed valley. It's spectacular. It's also designated as a Very
Important Bird Area (that's a real designation, I didn't make it up!). It's sparsely populated, and there are virtually no services in the valley. Certainly there isn't cell or internet service. As on our other road trips, just the drive itself is interesting.
Glen Davis
Eventually we ended up at the Glen Davis campground. One of the interesting things we have seen around Australia are these small, free, community supported campgrounds. The center was closed, but there were bathrooms, showers, and potable water. Steve was birding, and I was catching up on reading and writing. We were both grateful we had packed a lunch! (thanks Fiona!)
I read all the history of the area, and chatted with a few people. This is apparently also a good starting point for lots of bush walks as well, and the next day I ran into a family who had been out for about two weeks. They were all taking showers!
The town is almost non-existent now, but the history is pretty interesting. It was basically a company town started in the 30s for Petroleum/shale oil production. At one time they had up to 2500 people living there, and had a theater, garden, and a bowls club among other community benefits. Now there are mostly shells of houses. They still do a reunion of the workers every year, and there's a monthly community dinner.
Finding a place to stay, oh, and a breathalyzer!
Eventually we drive back up through the valley headed for Rylestone and Kandos, looking for a place to stay. That's right, miss super planner here had made no reservations for the two nights we would be out there. To be fair, we decided at the last minute and I did try to reach a couple of places but one was not available and the other never returned my calls.
Entering Rylestone I saw a police checkpoint to the right and someone (cough, cough, Steve) did not have their seatbelt on so I turned the other way and wound through town looking for lodging. We didn't see anything promising, everything looked pretty shut down. It was, after all, New Year's Day.
Seatbelt securely fastened we headed back out of town, and got waved over by the police checkpoint. What? Another breathalyzer in Australia? Seriously, I've never done a breathalyzer in the US, and each of the last two times to Australia I've gone through these checkpoints.
In any case, after he admired my Missouri drivers license (he'd never seen one of those) and noted how colorful it was, I passed my breathalyzer test and asked him about lodging in Kandos, a small town just up the road. He mentioned a motel right as you enter town, right at the golf course. And then said, Don't expect much from Kandos.
Hmmm
So, we pull in, get out of the car, and Steve immediately spots a yellow-tailed black cockatoo and is off while I go over to the office. It's about 7, and after office hours. Just before I reach the office I see a screen door to the right, glance over, and see an ancient couple seated side by side at a kitchen table, looking out at me through the screen. I'm sure they were watching a tv mounted on the outer wall, but it was just so funny.
I ask if they have any rooms for the night, and they answer yes. She starts to rise, and he asks if she is okay to take care of me. She mutters yes, yes, and gets to her feet, reaches her walker, inches into the office, and eventually the door to the office opens and she beckons me in.
No worries, she was going to take care of me all right. What a sweetheart. Turns out she only had room for the one night and so after getting me all checked in for tonight she makes it her mission to find a place in the valley for Thursday night. She's unlucky for the first few calls, and each call involves conversations that go something like this
Hello, Marie here from the Fairways Motel in Kandos. Fine, fine, hoping 2014 is a bit better than 2013, been in and out of hospital for the lat 3 months but feeling better now--yes yes, we have had the firefighters staying with us. They are a lot of work, they pack and take their things but come back and I have already washed the sheets--oh well, you have to take the bad with the good. Oh, you know Richard? Well, I have an American couple here, they are birdwatchers. They need a room in the valley tomorrow night.
And so on. It was great!
I tell her not to worry, that we can always drive over to Lithgow tomorrow night. Well, that just won't do! (Lithgow is a bit away, and not necessarily scenic.)
Then I ask if she knows a place we can gt dinner, and she makes that her net mission. She calls around, asks if we like Chinese, then draws me a mud map.*
Unfortunately, she draws it on paper on the counter, well below where I can see it. She tells me the instructions as she writes, but doesn't actually show me the map until she gives it to me.
She then has another idea for accommodation, and reaches Diane Page at Glen Alice Farm. They have a cottage near Glen Alice, and so I write down another set of instructions and make plans to stop there the next day.
At last, we are checked in. It's another 50s style motel room. Cinderblock walls, avocado green fixtures, the same 50s patterned bedspreads, designed so as to not show the dirt.
*I finally asked on our last trip why they called them mud maps as I had never heard the term before. They said because people used to squat in the dirt/mud with a stick, and draw a map.
Chinese Food in Kandos
After a few wrong turns, and a short tour of downtown Kandos, we pull in to a parking lot behind the local RSL Club.* There are two ladies sitting there having a smoke, so we asked them if this was where the Chinese restaurant was. They say yes, and I ask them were to enter. They point to a door that says DANGER, DO NOT ENTER on it.
So we shrug and enter.
We enter a pretty large bar area, with gambling machines (pokies?) on one end, a stage at the other, and well decorated for Christmas. We still don't see a restaurant and are pointed through another set of doors.
Aha! We've found it!
But it turns out it is cash only so we look in my wallet and I have all of $40 so we peruse the menu and figure out what we can get for $40. Steve orders Fish and Chips (they do Australian meals as well as Chinese) and I order Curry Chicken. Could we order pop? No, we need to get that from the bar.
Back to the bar I go, and order 2 cokes. Upon hearing my American accent the bartender asks if I would like 2 glasses of ice. Yes please.
It's only 4 dollars and a creatively bearded and tattooed man offers to carry the cokes while I carry the glasses of ice.
There are two Chinese Cooks and one Chinese woman working and it is hoping. There's a possibilty it's the open place New Year's Day night! It's well over 30 minutes before we get our meal as they fill takeout orders, orders from the bar, and orders for people there in the dining room. And it was worth it. The curry was super good.
After a longer tour of the main street, looking to see if there was a Westpac ATM and where the grocery stores are, we head back to the room. Time warp or not, it was the best shower I had in Australia. You could regulate the temperature and it was hot and had water pressure.
Refreshed, we watch Roger Federer win in Brisbane and go to sleep on the super soft sheets.
Here's the link to the Kandos Fairway Motel...you can take a look at the rooms! http://www.kandosfairwaysmotel.com.au/index.php
*RSL - I wasn't sure what RSL clubs were, and had seen them other places. This is what Wikepedia says: The Returned and Services League of Australia (often abbreviated to RSL) is a support organisation for men and women who have served or are serving in the Australian Defence Force (ADF).
It also says this about licensed RSL clubs: Licensed clubs operating under the RSL 'banner' usually have bar and dining facilities for their members and guests, and sometimes have extensive gambling areas. In licensed (RSL) clubs, each evening a one-minute silence is called for in respect and an ode is read to honour those war veterans who have served their country.[11]
Given the setup of the one we visited in Kandos, I suspect it is a licensed RSL club.
At last, we are checked in. It's another 50s style motel room. Cinderblock walls, avocado green fixtures, the same 50s patterned bedspreads, designed so as to not show the dirt.
*I finally asked on our last trip why they called them mud maps as I had never heard the term before. They said because people used to squat in the dirt/mud with a stick, and draw a map.
Chinese Food in Kandos
After a few wrong turns, and a short tour of downtown Kandos, we pull in to a parking lot behind the local RSL Club.* There are two ladies sitting there having a smoke, so we asked them if this was where the Chinese restaurant was. They say yes, and I ask them were to enter. They point to a door that says DANGER, DO NOT ENTER on it.
So we shrug and enter.
We enter a pretty large bar area, with gambling machines (pokies?) on one end, a stage at the other, and well decorated for Christmas. We still don't see a restaurant and are pointed through another set of doors.
Aha! We've found it!
But it turns out it is cash only so we look in my wallet and I have all of $40 so we peruse the menu and figure out what we can get for $40. Steve orders Fish and Chips (they do Australian meals as well as Chinese) and I order Curry Chicken. Could we order pop? No, we need to get that from the bar.
Back to the bar I go, and order 2 cokes. Upon hearing my American accent the bartender asks if I would like 2 glasses of ice. Yes please.
It's only 4 dollars and a creatively bearded and tattooed man offers to carry the cokes while I carry the glasses of ice.
There are two Chinese Cooks and one Chinese woman working and it is hoping. There's a possibilty it's the open place New Year's Day night! It's well over 30 minutes before we get our meal as they fill takeout orders, orders from the bar, and orders for people there in the dining room. And it was worth it. The curry was super good.
After a longer tour of the main street, looking to see if there was a Westpac ATM and where the grocery stores are, we head back to the room. Time warp or not, it was the best shower I had in Australia. You could regulate the temperature and it was hot and had water pressure.
Refreshed, we watch Roger Federer win in Brisbane and go to sleep on the super soft sheets.
Here's the link to the Kandos Fairway Motel...you can take a look at the rooms! http://www.kandosfairwaysmotel.com.au/index.php
*RSL - I wasn't sure what RSL clubs were, and had seen them other places. This is what Wikepedia says: The Returned and Services League of Australia (often abbreviated to RSL) is a support organisation for men and women who have served or are serving in the Australian Defence Force (ADF).
It also says this about licensed RSL clubs: Licensed clubs operating under the RSL 'banner' usually have bar and dining facilities for their members and guests, and sometimes have extensive gambling areas. In licensed (RSL) clubs, each evening a one-minute silence is called for in respect and an ode is read to honour those war veterans who have served their country.[11]
Given the setup of the one we visited in Kandos, I suspect it is a licensed RSL club.
Saturday, January 11, 2014
New Year's Eve in Sydney!
I think most would agree that Sydney does up New Year's Eve right. We were lucky enough to see it with our very own eyes! But first...
Meeting some virtual friends IRL
I'm active on an online travel forum, and had a great opportunity to meet up with some people I "know" from the boards. Fiona was worried I'd get lost or not make it on time, so decided to drop me off at the Museum of Contemporary Art and Steve over at the Royal Botanic Gardens for some birding.
I was a little early, so wandered the Rocks, then bought a few souvenirs as I hadn't really bought any yet.
The streets of the CBD in Sydney were bustling as preparations for the night's activities were underway. Kiosks selling souvenirs and food were being assembled, Entry Gate points listed with times, all sorts of Sydney police officers.
I arrived at the Museum of Contemporary of Art cafe to find the group waiting for me and they waved me down. What a beautiful venue, with views of the harbor and the Sydney Opera house off the terrace.
Bokhara kindly retrieved a flat white for me, for which I was exceedingly grateful. (I can't figure out flat whites, but I want them here.)
Then what? We chatted, and chatted, and chatted some more. It felt like meeting up with old friends. Then Barbara arrived! DH and I had met Barbara up in FNQ birding. As she lived in Sydney, and our time there was limited, I had invited her to join us if she wished. She's super nice, and humble about her status as one of the top birders in Australia.
She brought a bottle of water to the table, and glasses, and making an assumption about this american, a glass of ice for me
I was okay either way, honest.
We had a nice lunch, cider and champagne were poured, and before we knew it, 2 hours had gone by.
Everyone had places to go and people to see, and so we all went our own way. But not before a few pictures.
It was delightful, and I hope that I will have the opportunity again.
A Nap
I walked back through Circular Quay over to the bus stands. It was even busier than before, and lots of people were already setting up their blankets and staking their claims for the fireworks and festivities later that night. I hopped the bus back to Pyrmont, got off in front of the Post Office on Harris and bought post card stamps. For once, I would get the post cards to my god daughter actually mailed from the location where they were bought.
I then browsed through Simon Prince, which caught my eye as I walked back to the apartment. What a great store (think Dean & Duluca etc).
But really, what I needed was a nap. I knew I wouldn't be able to stay up until midnight unless I had one as we had been getting up very early and going to bed early the whole trip. So I joined Fiona for a cup of tea at the apt, and we both headed off for naps.
New Year's Eve in Sydney
Fiona and Mark have their routine down, and mostly I got in the way as they prepared. Then Mark gave me a cold drink, and introduced me to bitters, and got me out of the way. The view from the balcony is fantastic, and soon there were fireworks.
There were to be three fireworks exhibits. The first was about 9 or 9:30 (I don't remember now).
Sydney New Year's Eve 2013 - 9:30 Show
Then we were told there would be something 10-ish. Actually I think what I labelled 9:30 was the 10-ish one--cause that was it.
And, Midnight!
Happy New Year Everyone!
Oh I like these! - Fiona
Horns!
There was some disappointment when the normal fireworks from the tops of the buildings did not occur.
C'mon Buildings!
And a fabulous start to 2014 it was.
Meeting some virtual friends IRL
I'm active on an online travel forum, and had a great opportunity to meet up with some people I "know" from the boards. Fiona was worried I'd get lost or not make it on time, so decided to drop me off at the Museum of Contemporary Art and Steve over at the Royal Botanic Gardens for some birding.
I was a little early, so wandered the Rocks, then bought a few souvenirs as I hadn't really bought any yet.
The streets of the CBD in Sydney were bustling as preparations for the night's activities were underway. Kiosks selling souvenirs and food were being assembled, Entry Gate points listed with times, all sorts of Sydney police officers.
I arrived at the Museum of Contemporary of Art cafe to find the group waiting for me and they waved me down. What a beautiful venue, with views of the harbor and the Sydney Opera house off the terrace.
Bokhara kindly retrieved a flat white for me, for which I was exceedingly grateful. (I can't figure out flat whites, but I want them here.)
Then what? We chatted, and chatted, and chatted some more. It felt like meeting up with old friends. Then Barbara arrived! DH and I had met Barbara up in FNQ birding. As she lived in Sydney, and our time there was limited, I had invited her to join us if she wished. She's super nice, and humble about her status as one of the top birders in Australia.
She brought a bottle of water to the table, and glasses, and making an assumption about this american, a glass of ice for me
I was okay either way, honest.We had a nice lunch, cider and champagne were poured, and before we knew it, 2 hours had gone by.
Everyone had places to go and people to see, and so we all went our own way. But not before a few pictures.
It was delightful, and I hope that I will have the opportunity again.
A Nap
I walked back through Circular Quay over to the bus stands. It was even busier than before, and lots of people were already setting up their blankets and staking their claims for the fireworks and festivities later that night. I hopped the bus back to Pyrmont, got off in front of the Post Office on Harris and bought post card stamps. For once, I would get the post cards to my god daughter actually mailed from the location where they were bought.
I then browsed through Simon Prince, which caught my eye as I walked back to the apartment. What a great store (think Dean & Duluca etc).
But really, what I needed was a nap. I knew I wouldn't be able to stay up until midnight unless I had one as we had been getting up very early and going to bed early the whole trip. So I joined Fiona for a cup of tea at the apt, and we both headed off for naps.
New Year's Eve in Sydney
Fiona and Mark have their routine down, and mostly I got in the way as they prepared. Then Mark gave me a cold drink, and introduced me to bitters, and got me out of the way. The view from the balcony is fantastic, and soon there were fireworks.
There were to be three fireworks exhibits. The first was about 9 or 9:30 (I don't remember now).
Sydney New Year's Eve 2013 - 9:30 Show
Then we were told there would be something 10-ish. Actually I think what I labelled 9:30 was the 10-ish one--cause that was it.
And, Midnight!
Happy New Year Everyone!
Oh I like these! - Fiona
Horns!
There was some disappointment when the normal fireworks from the tops of the buildings did not occur.
C'mon Buildings!
And a fabulous start to 2014 it was.
Friday, January 10, 2014
In Search of the Superb Lyrebird - It was, in fact, a day at the beach
Steve and I had been trying to spend more time at Royal National Park since our first visit back in 2003. On that day we had about 1/2 day as we had to get back for Fiona's Thanksgiving Dinner back in Sydney. In 2007 we tried again, but we got lost, arrived late, and got caught in a downpour.
This year turned out quite a bit better! We managed to leave by 5:30 am and had a smooth drive out. We were at Lady Carrington Drive by 6:30 am. There were only a few people about, mostly runners this early on Lady Carrington Drive. We noticed a definite rotation--the runners were the earliest, followed by those on mountain bikes, with walkers appearing by the time we were leaving.
RNP is the 2nd oldest National Park in the world, right after Yellowstone. The initial attraction back in 2003 was searching out the Superb Lyrebird, which could consistently be found on Lady Carrington Drive right past the Audley visitor information Center. But, on that same trip we had discovered Wattamolla Beach, and the coastal track, and we wanted to get back there too. And, frankly, there's a lot more we would like to see there!
Lady Carrington Drive
Apparently back in the day, one would take carriage rides down this track. There are still old, huge cobblestones in some places. 
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| Banksia |
These are on the river side.
But, we are mainly on a quest for the Superb Lyrebird, and having no luck. The cicadas are deafening. I don't mean a little bit. Australian cicadas are cicadas on steroids. Our ears were actually ringing from the noise, which meant we couldn't hear any rustles or bird calls. I'm not sure if this will work, but if it does, the below is a recording of just how loud it was!
Apparently you can't use the video on i-devices, so you can also try this you-tube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYqBmUppMtQ&feature=youtu.be
Finally, after hours of walking (okay, maybe it was only one hour) we give up and turn back. Shortly thereafter, Steve glances to his right, and there it is! Steve's pictures are better, but here are a few of mine.
More importantly, even over the sound of the cicadas, we got to hear it sing. Let's try this again!
And here is the you-tube link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iWqXO4NQyE&feature=youtu.be
It moved off, we walked a little further, and there was another! Although these pics of the tail are out of focus, it should give you a better idea of the whole bird, and how cool the tail is. We didn't get to see it display, but still felt pretty lucky.
A Day At the Beach
We didn't make it back to Audley until 11:30. We headed over to Wattamolla. Previously we had been there earlier in the month, before summer and school holidays, and one time in the rain. So we were not prepared for how packed it was! We finally found parking in the upper lot.
You can access the coastal track from Wattamolla, and there are all sorts of picnic areas there. There is a creek that meets the sea, and there is a sandbar between the creek and the sea that forms a lagoon. On the parking lot side there is also a waterfall into the lagoon. On previous trips I had thought it would be fun to swim there. And so I did.
Steve walked the track to do some heath birding and I took my things down the track and over to the sandy beach by the lagoon. It was packed, there were people everywhere. There was a steady stream of people walking down the track and the stairs down to the sand bar. I alternately swam, read a book, and napped, interspersed with a little people watching. The younger crowd was jumping from the waterfall into the pool, and whenever someone was at the very top getting ready to jump, a chant started up that rang throughout the beach area.
Steve eventually joined me and waded in both the lagoon and the sea, just to say he did.
We arrived back in Sydney around 7 to a delicious dinner prepared by Fiona.
Here are a few more pics from the walk.
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| Cool Bark |
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| Sulpher Crested Cockatoo |
December 27-29 - Cairns/Sydney/Nabiac
Time to do some catch up posts!
Friday, December 27
We had good intentions of leaving Daintree Village at 5 am but Steve didn't want me to have to drive the Captain Cook Highway in the dark so we dawdled a bit, had some breakfast, and set out shortly after sunrise. Again, it's such a beautiful drive.
We stopped at a newish wetlands just north of Cairns, called the Cattana Wetlands.
http://www.cairns.qld.gov.au/facilities-and-recreation/parks/cattana-wetlands
They are man-made wetlands that were originally sugar cane fields, and then a mining quarry. There wasn't a lot going on that morning, but you could see where it would be a good place for birding.
We headed on to the Cairns Esplanade, and later the Flecker Botanic Gardens and the Mangrove Boardwalk on the way out to the airport. We had an afternoon flight to Sydney, and tried to make the most of our time in Cairns before going.
It was hard to say good-bye to Far North Queensland!
Saturday, December 28
Mark picked us up at the Sydney airport Friday evening, and we arrived at the apartment to see Fiona, her mum Dee, and enjoy a late supper that Fiona had prepared. It was great to see everyone and catch up, but we needed to get on the road in the morning to Nabiac, so soon went to bed.
Mark wanted to be on the road by 7:30, and I think we made it. I don't know, I was just a passenger. We had a few hours in the car, so as you can imagine, still a lot of chatting and catching up. We tried to make a pit stop at a McDonald's in a service area off the Pacific Highway, but turned back as I have never seen such a crowded service area in my life. Steve declared that this was where he had seen the most beautiful woman he had ever seen on a stop back in 2007, but we were pretty sure she wasn't there this time.
A stop in Newcastle to drop off Dee, who was suffering from whatever dastardly disease Fiona foisted upon us all, then on to the farm in Nabiac.
Then the day went like this:
Friday, December 27
We had good intentions of leaving Daintree Village at 5 am but Steve didn't want me to have to drive the Captain Cook Highway in the dark so we dawdled a bit, had some breakfast, and set out shortly after sunrise. Again, it's such a beautiful drive.
We stopped at a newish wetlands just north of Cairns, called the Cattana Wetlands.
http://www.cairns.qld.gov.au/facilities-and-recreation/parks/cattana-wetlands
They are man-made wetlands that were originally sugar cane fields, and then a mining quarry. There wasn't a lot going on that morning, but you could see where it would be a good place for birding.
We headed on to the Cairns Esplanade, and later the Flecker Botanic Gardens and the Mangrove Boardwalk on the way out to the airport. We had an afternoon flight to Sydney, and tried to make the most of our time in Cairns before going.
It was hard to say good-bye to Far North Queensland!
Saturday, December 28
Mark picked us up at the Sydney airport Friday evening, and we arrived at the apartment to see Fiona, her mum Dee, and enjoy a late supper that Fiona had prepared. It was great to see everyone and catch up, but we needed to get on the road in the morning to Nabiac, so soon went to bed.
Mark wanted to be on the road by 7:30, and I think we made it. I don't know, I was just a passenger. We had a few hours in the car, so as you can imagine, still a lot of chatting and catching up. We tried to make a pit stop at a McDonald's in a service area off the Pacific Highway, but turned back as I have never seen such a crowded service area in my life. Steve declared that this was where he had seen the most beautiful woman he had ever seen on a stop back in 2007, but we were pretty sure she wasn't there this time.
A stop in Newcastle to drop off Dee, who was suffering from whatever dastardly disease Fiona foisted upon us all, then on to the farm in Nabiac.
Then the day went like this:
- Lazing about on daybeds on the screened in porch, chatting and more catching up
- Laundry and pegging clothes out on the line
- Mark taking Steve and me over to the new property to check it out, and give the cattle a bale of hay
- Fiona teaching me how to drive a quad and making me follow her around while she moved cattle
- Feeding the two bulls and scratching their gigantic heads
- Eating dinner late, out on the deck, under the gaze of a Tawny Frogmouth
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| Hello girls! |
Sunday, December 29
I can't get out! I wake earlier than everyone else but can't get out of the house. The door has bolts that are too high for me to reach and all the other doors are locked from the inside and I can't find the keys. So I start the day feeling short :-( Eventually, Steve wakes up and releases me.
This is another day that isn't really about sightseeing, but about visiting with friends. Steve takes walks to look at birds, Mark is doing something about thistles, Fiona waters and ties up plants. Steve, Mark and I make a run into Nabiac, with stops along the fencelines to move any limbs that might have fallen on them. There are a few, and they move them, Mark getting a rather impressive splinter in the process.
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| The impressive bougainvillea next to the deck over the river. |
Back on the road at 4. Mark takes us back via Ku-ring-gai National Park. We stop and stretch our legs at Bobbin Head. Another spectacularly beautiful area, and one where we would love to spend more time down the road!
Picked up some take out Thai and called it a night!
Thursday, January 9, 2014
Satin Bowerbirds
Hopefully I'll catch up on more entries this weekend. In the meantime, here are a couple of videos (not good ones, I was startled into filming them, but took the chance).
The male creates and decorates the bower to attract the female. It's not a nest, it's more of a boudoir. The Satin Bowerbird decoraters with items in the blue spectrum. Straws, flowers, bottle caps, clothespins.
I glanced over just as this male flew in with another straw and then spent some time decorating and moving around his decorations.
So, they are shaky, but fun for me to watch anyway.
and
Sunday, January 5, 2014
Part 2 - Three Trips on the Daintree River
To continue from the previous entry...
We had a very fun second trip with Alma and Ray. They were a funny couple, and I have named him The Punster. Sauce had told us that in front of the Big Barra Cafe there were some stickbugs--big and small. Steve and I walked up there and found several, then Ray and Alma joined us. Just watching Alma's reactions was entertainment enough, but then Ray stroked the bug so that it's wings flared out. Absolutely cool.
After that 2nd cruise we took a short break for showers and something to eat, then drove up Stewart Creek Road and Upper Daintree Road to see what we could see. We saw lots of fields, lots of cows (scary cows!) some butterflies, and a Forest Kingfisher let Steve get really close for some video.
This sign cracked me up. It makes the cows seem like they might be very scary cows!
But really, they were just very curious cattle.
Ian told us to be back by 4, and we would be on the cruise alone. This was primarily for video, and Steve was on a quest for the Shining Flycatcher. We went up river, then up Stewart's Creek since the tide was high. We could only be up there so long otherwise we wouldn't be able to get back out once the tide went out.
Lots of great things to see, and saw some of the flycatcher, but then it really came through. We spotted the nest, and had seen that the birds had been flying on a path to it, so we backed in under some overhanging tree branches and just sat on the nest. Pretty soon the male came along, and turns out there were chicks in the nest! So we got to see the male and female trading places, feeding the babies, removing the fecal sac, and so on. It was awesome.
The tide was going out then, so we had to be on our way, but it was an absolutely super trip. Here is a picture of Ian and Steve.
We had a very fun second trip with Alma and Ray. They were a funny couple, and I have named him The Punster. Sauce had told us that in front of the Big Barra Cafe there were some stickbugs--big and small. Steve and I walked up there and found several, then Ray and Alma joined us. Just watching Alma's reactions was entertainment enough, but then Ray stroked the bug so that it's wings flared out. Absolutely cool.
After that 2nd cruise we took a short break for showers and something to eat, then drove up Stewart Creek Road and Upper Daintree Road to see what we could see. We saw lots of fields, lots of cows (scary cows!) some butterflies, and a Forest Kingfisher let Steve get really close for some video.
This sign cracked me up. It makes the cows seem like they might be very scary cows!
But really, they were just very curious cattle.
Ian told us to be back by 4, and we would be on the cruise alone. This was primarily for video, and Steve was on a quest for the Shining Flycatcher. We went up river, then up Stewart's Creek since the tide was high. We could only be up there so long otherwise we wouldn't be able to get back out once the tide went out.
Lots of great things to see, and saw some of the flycatcher, but then it really came through. We spotted the nest, and had seen that the birds had been flying on a path to it, so we backed in under some overhanging tree branches and just sat on the nest. Pretty soon the male came along, and turns out there were chicks in the nest! So we got to see the male and female trading places, feeding the babies, removing the fecal sac, and so on. It was awesome.
The tide was going out then, so we had to be on our way, but it was an absolutely super trip. Here is a picture of Ian and Steve.
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