We have based ourselves in Palm Springs CA for two weeks. A week ago we ventured out to the Salton Sea.
A Salton Sea Day
Monday was the coldest day of the week so we wanted to do something where weather didn't matter as much. I have always been fascinated by the Salton Sea, and Monday turned out to be the day.
The Salton Sea changes year by year, and what was there a few years ago, is gone now, and even more may be gone in the coming years. So, I am glad we went.
A brief, and incomplete history
If you are unfamiliar with the Salton Sea, it is an inland sea/lake created and impacted by both natural and human actions. It is an area that once was part of the Gulf of California, but was dry in the 1800s.
The Imperial Valley of CA was developing, and they needed irrigation for crops and orchards. Irrigation ditches and canals were built. Then the Colorado River flooded, the levees were breached and for 16 months the Colorado River poured into the lowest land point, creating the Salton Sea.
In the 50s the place boomed as a recreation area. In the 70s repeated flooding devastated much of it. There's no natural outflow point so water that comes in either evaporates or perks through the soil below. It takes all the agricultural run off from the surrounding area.
The only fish that survive are tilapia (perfectly safe to eat). The water is higher in salinity than the ocean and often smells. Fresh water is being diverted to San Diego (I believe that is what I read).
Still, it is beautiful, and a bit haunting.
The Visitor Center
We started on the northeast section and visited the Visitor Center and walked on the beach. As we had been told, dead fish littered the shores. But shorebirds including black necked stilts, several egrets, and pelicans flew about.
Bombay Beach
Next stop was Bombay Beach, once a thriving community on the shores of the lake. It was more inhabited than I thought it would be, with most of the abandoned residences on the very edge next to the manmade berms to the lake. There were some fascinating and beautiful graffiti on many of the buildings.
Salvation Mountain
Next we drove on to Niland and headed west to Salvation Mountain. This is out towards the area known as Slab City, or The Slabs.
You know those big billboards along the highway telling you that Jesus Loves You? Salvation Mountain is those billboards on steroids. The creator passed away last year but left behind quite a monument.
He has used clay and straw and paint to build a "mountain" with bible verses, exhortations, and decorative touches. Don't just view it from the parking lot though. Wander up and see where he has built alcoves and almost altars of mementos. Here he also incorporated found objects like car doors.
It's all very colorful, and as one friend said when she saw photos, it looks like claymation.
All about the parking lot are cars, motorcycles, and more, all painted and decorated in the same style.
Slab City
We then drove on further into Slab City. These are the old slabs remaining from Marine training grounds. Now it is a city of squatters with no services and no fees. There are a few spots where they have put together gathering places for live music, as well as a free library.
It's not pretty, but it is an interesting part of our culture.
The Sole Tree:
Dos Palmas Reserve
This is as far south as we went. We turned around and headed back to the Visitor Center for a picnic lunch, then headed east up to Dos Palmas Reserve. We took a short 1.5 mile walk up to a palm oasis. It was somewhat eerie in among the untrimmed palms. Light and shadow created interesting and spooky patterns.
International Banana Museum
Now we were headed back north, and were lucky enough to stop at the International Banana Museum!
Itis only open Friday through Monday. What a hoot. There is a sign outside the door that if you just want to look, you have to pay a $. And of course it isn't a museum at all, but an extensive collection of every imaginable thing you could imagine related to a banana.
We had chocolate banana milkshakes, made with real ice cream, and they were delicious. You could get banana splits, banana sundaes, and frozen bananas dipped in chocolate. I should have gotten one of those. DH bought a banana soda but I don't know if he drank it yet.
The owner was just quite a character, and his daughter was working the counter too. There are 4 barstools set up like a soda fountain counter. It was never crowded, but there was a prettyregular steady stream of people coming in for banana treats.
Since we stopped there, I did not make DH also stop at the date farm for a dateshake. That will have to wait for another day (Lots of date farms around here, and date shakes are a big deal. Haven't tried one yet)
I've never heard of Salvation Mountain…the artist could give Gaudi a run for his money and I love the windows with the Matisse-like cutouts. The Banana Museum is a riot and definitely worth your revisit :-) Hope you get a date shake soon!
ReplyDeleteThe windows were my favorite thing too. Running out of time for the date shake!
Delete