Lodging - Kookaburra Lodge
This worked out beautifully for us. It's very reasonably priced, especially when you are birding and mainly sleeping and showering there. You had two choices for breakfast, eggs and bacon or scrambled herbed eggs. The fried eggs and bacon were good, and the herbed scrambled eggs were really good. It was served on the table outside your room.
The rooms are small, but just fine for what we needed. The gardens are beautiful, and filled with butterflies. It was also convenient to just walk into the village, which I did on the Wednesday. The hosts were especially nice, and we would definitely stay there again.
Dining
Nick's
Everyone seems to know about Nick's, and when we realized we had missed the grocery story by 9 minutes (closed at 7) we decided to try it out. Steve had a wood-fired pizza and I had spaghetti, and we shared a salad. We were both pretty full! Two nights later we returned for pizza as they had carryout and we were both sort of tired and wanted to stay in. The spaghetti was okay, but the pizzas were really good, we would recommend.
Lake Eacham Hotel
I ate lunch there on my stay-home day, and had bangers and mash. It was okay. The serving was huge, and I couldn't eat it all. I could see that many of the other servings around me were also gigantic. Roasted pumpkin made its appearance on the plate and was really good.
Then, Steve and I ate there that night as well. I had their garlic prawns and rice, and it was delicious. Steve had a burger and fries that he also thought was good.
After talking to the bartender for awhile, Steve tried the Bundaberg Sarsparilla and I tried their Ginger Beer. Really refreshing.
We poked around the dining room as we waited for the meal. Did I already describe the building? Creaking wooden floors, huge rooms that go on and on, big sliding doors between the rooms with wood on the bottom and stained glass at the top, pub on one side with a room with pool tables and poker tables, and tables outside in front so you can watch the world go by.
On to Julatten
After we left Lake Eacham on Friday we made our way to Julatten via Atherton and Mareeba. As always, we just enjoy looking around the countryside as we go. We had driven this way with Alan the day before when we went to Granite Gorge, and soon passed that turn off.
I stopped at a roadside stand and bought sugar bananas, mango, and passion fruit. I really thought I was stopping at a watermelon stand, but it turns out that sign was for a stand across the highway. But then I felt committed to buy something because the old guy was so sweet. He cut open a passion fruit so I could try it, then picked out four for me.
Then I bought a mango because I figured it was time I tried them again. He took his time finding just the right mango for me. Turns out, I still don't like them.
Then I bought sugar bananas, because hey, I like bananas, and it has sugar in the name, so what's not to like? Apparently a lot.
The passion fruit is a hit though! I am eating some now.
Mareeba was the last big town before Julatten, so I dropped Steve at the Rotary Park there to bird, and I went back to fill up the gas tank and go grocery shopping. I bought some watermelon here since I missed out on the stand earlier.
We hadn't eaten since breakfast, so I made a third detour, driving through a Red Rooster and getting some chicken sandwiches and coke for the two of us. Back to the park where I waved him down and we picnicked there before moving on.
Unfortunately it sounds like the fruit bats have really changed the habitat at the park, and the birding wasn't great. We also stopped at Abbatoir Swamp (inviting name, right?) but the boardwalk is really in disrepair, and there wasn't much going on. On to Kingfisher Lodge whre Steve went birding and I got dinner ready.
Sunday, December 22, 2013
Saturday, December 21, 2013
Finally, Friday December 20. The Mistletoe Bird at last becomes cooperative - sort of
Although Alan's obligation to us was more than fulfilled, he kindly offered to meet up with us in the morning and take us over to his friends' place at Crater Lake Rainforest Cottages-in search of the riflebird.
His friends John and Jenny Wright, the owners, let us wander their grounds and sit on their veranda even though we weren't staying there.
We walked down to the cottages, and got a long shot of the riflebird and the blue off its butt, but that was about it.
The cottages are gorgeous, and definitely a place to consider if you are in the tablelands. Large rooms, generous kitchen, hardwood floor, comfy looking couch, and spa baths with bay windows built out into the rainforest. Each has their own private veranda, and in addition there is a public pavilion with table and chairs, and bbq to use. There is a nice waterfall feature built alongside. www.craterlakes.com.au if you would like to take a look.
Alan had a Christmas party to attend so left to meet up with Maria and left us with John and Jenny on the veranda. John and Steve chatted a bit and John had to leave, so Steve checked out birds and Jenny and I sat and chatted. She was very sweet and I enjoyed talking to her, and watching the Rainbow Lorikeets.
Steve had a date with the mistletoe bird, so we went back over to Lake Eacham. It hung around for hours, along with a Scarlet Honeyeater. A Ulysses butterfly made an appearance, as well asa zodiacmoth and later a Silver eye something or another. We were there a pretty long time while Steve tried to get a good shot, and up drove Alan, Maria, and their ten year old neighbor Imogene. It was nice to meet Maria!
Lake Eacham is another crater lake, and there's no beach as such. In one area there's a platform people can swim off of, and in another area there are just some steps that go right down into the water. I poked a toe in and it wasn't too cold. People were swimming and paddle boarding even though it was again cool and rainy.
Eventually we hit the road and head to Julatten and Kingfisher Lodge.
I'm worried I'm repeating myself so will stop here and check back later.
His friends John and Jenny Wright, the owners, let us wander their grounds and sit on their veranda even though we weren't staying there.
We walked down to the cottages, and got a long shot of the riflebird and the blue off its butt, but that was about it.
The cottages are gorgeous, and definitely a place to consider if you are in the tablelands. Large rooms, generous kitchen, hardwood floor, comfy looking couch, and spa baths with bay windows built out into the rainforest. Each has their own private veranda, and in addition there is a public pavilion with table and chairs, and bbq to use. There is a nice waterfall feature built alongside. www.craterlakes.com.au if you would like to take a look.
Alan had a Christmas party to attend so left to meet up with Maria and left us with John and Jenny on the veranda. John and Steve chatted a bit and John had to leave, so Steve checked out birds and Jenny and I sat and chatted. She was very sweet and I enjoyed talking to her, and watching the Rainbow Lorikeets.
Steve had a date with the mistletoe bird, so we went back over to Lake Eacham. It hung around for hours, along with a Scarlet Honeyeater. A Ulysses butterfly made an appearance, as well asa zodiacmoth and later a Silver eye something or another. We were there a pretty long time while Steve tried to get a good shot, and up drove Alan, Maria, and their ten year old neighbor Imogene. It was nice to meet Maria!
Lake Eacham is another crater lake, and there's no beach as such. In one area there's a platform people can swim off of, and in another area there are just some steps that go right down into the water. I poked a toe in and it wasn't too cold. People were swimming and paddle boarding even though it was again cool and rainy.
Eventually we hit the road and head to Julatten and Kingfisher Lodge.
I'm worried I'm repeating myself so will stop here and check back later.
Friday, December 20, 2013
December 19 - continued!
I realize this is a little disjointed! I posted some about Granite Gorge the other day, and I started the 18th, 19th, 20th series in a separate posts. Since it's not like I'm giving a test on what happened which day, it will be all right.
Alan picks us up about 7:30 and we head out to Granite Gorge. It's fun with him driving because he knows so much history and natural history. We pass banana, mango, and macadamia nut orchards, and learn a little about each as we go.
We proceed to granite country, and the massive upthrusts of granite that form the landscape.
There are a few bird stops on the way, and then we are looking for the frilled lizard (correct name?). We spot one in the road, come to a stop, and the darned thing takes off. And, instead of running right up a tree and freezing like they usually do, it just keeps going.
On we go, and after Alan pulls into the lane at the Granite Gorge Nature Park he pulls off into a field.
There's a Great Bowerbird bower to see! This one is very cool,lots of white snail shells,white rocks, flowers, pull tabs. But, there are also some red clothespins, red flowers, and green fruits. I meant to ask Alan about this but forgot.
Most of the ornamentation is up front, but there is also some decoration in the back--just in case the female approaches from that side. Inside the bower is a small platform of sorts. Alan points out how the male has used scale and perspective to make himself look bigger. So cool.
I do have pictures and video that I will try to get uploaded.
I've already posted about the Rock Wallabies. It was so fun to feed them, and watch them. These are not captive wallabies. It's amazing to see them move about on these massive boulders. I swear they look like little monkeys when they hop about.
We walk back a bit and there are tons of butterflies, damsel and dragonflies. I attempt to take some photos and they thwart me. I watch and film a babbler for awhile.
It's a really cool area that you can hike about. There's a certain amount of danger as they are after big rocks that could be slippery, so one should take care just as with any other nature hike. Any one of these places we visited I could spend days at!
Steve and Alan chase some birds and I sit to read for a while, then we head down the road, this time stopping at Tolga for lunch. Here I tried another Bundaberg soda, this time Pink Grapefruit. I haven't managed to try the famous Bundaberg rum yet, but their sodas are good! I've been getting sleepy so I get a flat white to go and off we go.
We stopped at the Malanda Visitor Center to see if any tree kangaroos had been seen. There hadn't been, but it was a really cool area. The center is one of the better ones I have seen, with lots of cool nature exhibits. It's a sort of modern design, all angles, and in the toilet I visited you wouldn't want to be very tall as the ceiling angles in pretty sharply!
There is beautiful mosaic in the car park, describing the area. Then, down the steps, you can see the falls, and how they have created a public pool that is filled by the falls, with spillover when it gets too full. Although it is cool and rainy there are people swimming and picnicking.
As Alan said, he promised me some falls, so we went on then to Millaa Millaa. Some brave souls are still swimming. The rock face that the falls, well, fall over, are interesting in formation. Long vertical blocks of basalt.
Pictures, a few birds, some botany lessons, and we move on from the rain to Lake Eacham to chase mistletoe birds. These are Steve's nemesis and still they taunt him. We move on to Lake Barrine. Steve and Alan moved into the rainforest to seek the tooth-billed bowerbird but I balk. This is the only place I got leeches before and my ankles don't need any more assault. I enjoy myself walking around the grounds, looking out at the lake, and sitting in the sun. They do get the tooth-billed so it is a success.
It's been a long day (Alan must be sick of us!) and so we get takeaway pizza from Nick's and read, write, and watch a little tv (I think the first time this trip).
Alan picks us up about 7:30 and we head out to Granite Gorge. It's fun with him driving because he knows so much history and natural history. We pass banana, mango, and macadamia nut orchards, and learn a little about each as we go.
We proceed to granite country, and the massive upthrusts of granite that form the landscape.
There are a few bird stops on the way, and then we are looking for the frilled lizard (correct name?). We spot one in the road, come to a stop, and the darned thing takes off. And, instead of running right up a tree and freezing like they usually do, it just keeps going.
On we go, and after Alan pulls into the lane at the Granite Gorge Nature Park he pulls off into a field.
There's a Great Bowerbird bower to see! This one is very cool,lots of white snail shells,white rocks, flowers, pull tabs. But, there are also some red clothespins, red flowers, and green fruits. I meant to ask Alan about this but forgot.
Most of the ornamentation is up front, but there is also some decoration in the back--just in case the female approaches from that side. Inside the bower is a small platform of sorts. Alan points out how the male has used scale and perspective to make himself look bigger. So cool.
I do have pictures and video that I will try to get uploaded.
I've already posted about the Rock Wallabies. It was so fun to feed them, and watch them. These are not captive wallabies. It's amazing to see them move about on these massive boulders. I swear they look like little monkeys when they hop about.
We walk back a bit and there are tons of butterflies, damsel and dragonflies. I attempt to take some photos and they thwart me. I watch and film a babbler for awhile.
It's a really cool area that you can hike about. There's a certain amount of danger as they are after big rocks that could be slippery, so one should take care just as with any other nature hike. Any one of these places we visited I could spend days at!
Steve and Alan chase some birds and I sit to read for a while, then we head down the road, this time stopping at Tolga for lunch. Here I tried another Bundaberg soda, this time Pink Grapefruit. I haven't managed to try the famous Bundaberg rum yet, but their sodas are good! I've been getting sleepy so I get a flat white to go and off we go.
We stopped at the Malanda Visitor Center to see if any tree kangaroos had been seen. There hadn't been, but it was a really cool area. The center is one of the better ones I have seen, with lots of cool nature exhibits. It's a sort of modern design, all angles, and in the toilet I visited you wouldn't want to be very tall as the ceiling angles in pretty sharply!
There is beautiful mosaic in the car park, describing the area. Then, down the steps, you can see the falls, and how they have created a public pool that is filled by the falls, with spillover when it gets too full. Although it is cool and rainy there are people swimming and picnicking.
As Alan said, he promised me some falls, so we went on then to Millaa Millaa. Some brave souls are still swimming. The rock face that the falls, well, fall over, are interesting in formation. Long vertical blocks of basalt.
Pictures, a few birds, some botany lessons, and we move on from the rain to Lake Eacham to chase mistletoe birds. These are Steve's nemesis and still they taunt him. We move on to Lake Barrine. Steve and Alan moved into the rainforest to seek the tooth-billed bowerbird but I balk. This is the only place I got leeches before and my ankles don't need any more assault. I enjoy myself walking around the grounds, looking out at the lake, and sitting in the sun. They do get the tooth-billed so it is a success.
It's been a long day (Alan must be sick of us!) and so we get takeaway pizza from Nick's and read, write, and watch a little tv (I think the first time this trip).
Yungaburra and The Atherton Tablelands - Dec 18, 19, 20
Upon arrival back from Undara we checked into the Kookaburra Lodge in Yungaburra. We had to drop Chillagoe Caves from our itinerary but this left us with two full days and three nights here, which wasn't hard to swallow at all. We could spend quite a bit of time in the Atherton Tablelands, and Yungaburra is a very pleasant village.
After lots of early mornings, it turns out the sun doesn't rise until 5:40 in the tablelands, so we woke too early at 4:30. We quickly adapted though and took advantage of the extra hour of sleep. Breakfast is included in the very reasonable rate here, and served on the table in front of our rooms. We ate each morning at 7:15, watching butterflies and enjoying the garden.
Wednesday
On Wednesday I decided to stay put, and sent Steve and Alan off for a full day of birding. I read, wrote, and chased a few butterflies in the garden. The highlight of my day was seeing the Cairns Birdwing! There were lots of Bordered Rustic butterflies and a metallic emerald green beetle called the Christmas beetle.
About one I took a walk through the village, looking for lunch. I stopped in at the Lake Eacham Hotel. I figured out the part about ordering at the bar, but didn't realize I had to pick up my own cutlery. The runner brought me my lunch, but no fork or knife! I had to go ask another diner what to do.
From there I poked my head in at the bakery, stopped at the pharmacy to have them take a look at my ankles, and looked around a homewares/gift shop, resisting the urge to buy anything. I needed some cash and had been pointed up to the post office.
I came upon the bowls club and stood and watched a bit and a woman said to me 'are you thinking of taking up the game?" I answered that I didn't actually know what it was, and she said 'Oh, are you an American?' and immediately made her way over to me to explain what bowls is, how there are some intricacies to it, and it is a great game! Then we chatted about where I was from, how happy she was to see American tourists, that they didn't get many, and so on. It was a pleasant little interlude.
No luck at the PO, but I kept wandering around, looking at the shops and buildings, then made my way to the Gem Shop. There some really beautiful stones but again I resisted the urge to buy. But we had a nice chat. Next to Foodway (cash machine there!) to buy some water and a few other things, poked my head in the bookshop, then back to the lodge for a cup of tea and more hanging out on the veranda.
Steve came back and topped my one Cairns Birdwing with several plus a Ulysses out on Mundy road. Darn him.
The Nocturnal Tour
A real highlight was going out on the nocturnal tour with Alan. We meet at the Platypus viewing area at Peterson Creek and a couple from Yorkshire joined us. Alan spent a few minutes showing us what we would be looking for, then we headed out to the Curtain Fig Tree. Alan kitted out both Crystal and myself with spotlights, and he of course led the way with his. We walked down the road scanning the trees.
We got a little rained on, and the critters were uncooperative for awhile, but then we saw first a Brushtail Possum and then a Green Ringtail Possum. We moved back to the parking area, looking all the while, then there was a short downpour and we took shelter under the info area roof. We walked around the Curtain Fig Tree and there were cockroaches and a millepede to look at.
Back across the street we got another good look at a green ringtail possum, then back on the parking area side I saw something small move. Once Alana started looking, there was another green ringtail possum and this one gave quite a show, moving about, using its tail and then eating a fig, dripping juices as it ate. There was a spectacled fruit bat there as well, and probably what I originally saw move. So, we obligingly watched it for awhile as well.
Alan gave us warning that if the bat flew over our heads, to duck and cover our heads as they urinate when they take off!
The tree kangaroo remained elusive, but it was an absolutely great night.
After lots of early mornings, it turns out the sun doesn't rise until 5:40 in the tablelands, so we woke too early at 4:30. We quickly adapted though and took advantage of the extra hour of sleep. Breakfast is included in the very reasonable rate here, and served on the table in front of our rooms. We ate each morning at 7:15, watching butterflies and enjoying the garden.
Wednesday
On Wednesday I decided to stay put, and sent Steve and Alan off for a full day of birding. I read, wrote, and chased a few butterflies in the garden. The highlight of my day was seeing the Cairns Birdwing! There were lots of Bordered Rustic butterflies and a metallic emerald green beetle called the Christmas beetle.
About one I took a walk through the village, looking for lunch. I stopped in at the Lake Eacham Hotel. I figured out the part about ordering at the bar, but didn't realize I had to pick up my own cutlery. The runner brought me my lunch, but no fork or knife! I had to go ask another diner what to do.
From there I poked my head in at the bakery, stopped at the pharmacy to have them take a look at my ankles, and looked around a homewares/gift shop, resisting the urge to buy anything. I needed some cash and had been pointed up to the post office.
I came upon the bowls club and stood and watched a bit and a woman said to me 'are you thinking of taking up the game?" I answered that I didn't actually know what it was, and she said 'Oh, are you an American?' and immediately made her way over to me to explain what bowls is, how there are some intricacies to it, and it is a great game! Then we chatted about where I was from, how happy she was to see American tourists, that they didn't get many, and so on. It was a pleasant little interlude.
No luck at the PO, but I kept wandering around, looking at the shops and buildings, then made my way to the Gem Shop. There some really beautiful stones but again I resisted the urge to buy. But we had a nice chat. Next to Foodway (cash machine there!) to buy some water and a few other things, poked my head in the bookshop, then back to the lodge for a cup of tea and more hanging out on the veranda.
Steve came back and topped my one Cairns Birdwing with several plus a Ulysses out on Mundy road. Darn him.
The Nocturnal Tour
A real highlight was going out on the nocturnal tour with Alan. We meet at the Platypus viewing area at Peterson Creek and a couple from Yorkshire joined us. Alan spent a few minutes showing us what we would be looking for, then we headed out to the Curtain Fig Tree. Alan kitted out both Crystal and myself with spotlights, and he of course led the way with his. We walked down the road scanning the trees.
We got a little rained on, and the critters were uncooperative for awhile, but then we saw first a Brushtail Possum and then a Green Ringtail Possum. We moved back to the parking area, looking all the while, then there was a short downpour and we took shelter under the info area roof. We walked around the Curtain Fig Tree and there were cockroaches and a millepede to look at.
Back across the street we got another good look at a green ringtail possum, then back on the parking area side I saw something small move. Once Alana started looking, there was another green ringtail possum and this one gave quite a show, moving about, using its tail and then eating a fig, dripping juices as it ate. There was a spectacled fruit bat there as well, and probably what I originally saw move. So, we obligingly watched it for awhile as well.
Alan gave us warning that if the bat flew over our heads, to duck and cover our heads as they urinate when they take off!
The tree kangaroo remained elusive, but it was an absolutely great night.
Undara Lava Tubes - Monday and Tuesday, December 16 and 17
The Undara Lava Tubes weren't really on my radar for Australia until I read a trip report from a couple of other visitors who made the trek. I'm so glad they wrote about it, and I'm so glad we went. It was a fantastic experience.
While lava tubes exist elsewhere in the world, most notably Hawaii, the longest in the world is here in Australia. It was great to have AlanG with us as well because he was able to provide even more in-depth information than the guides, and, he brought along a book that I could read about the tubes.
The tubes are creating when the outer edges of a lava flow harden, but the interior continues to flow and push through. I'm sure that is not the most scientific way to describe it, but if you want to really understand it, here's a site that describes the creation:
http://undara.com.au/about/tunnels-to-a-wildlife-underworld/
Essentially (to me) they become really massive horizontal caves.
It's an interesting setup, where the area is a national park, but the lodge and guiding is a private enterprise. In this case, the Collins family was there first, and had built the infrastructure (including the transfer and installation of the railway cars for lodging) and doing the tours. When the gov't was annexing the land for a national park, because of the infrastructure investment they basically couldn't afford to buy them out. So the Collins family gave them the surrounding land, but was able to keep their private enterprise.
We were there in the wet season, so where normally there are 30 employees running the place, while we were there, there were just 3. And a fabulous three at that, they were all very very nice.
During our stay we all did the Sunset Tour the first night, and I did the morning tour the next day while Steve and Alan birded.
Sunset Tour
Steve the Guide loaded us all up in a little minivan at 6 to head out for the sunset tour. This wasn't really so much about the sunset, as it was about the bats!
The ride out to Barkers Cave included lots of looks at Whiptail, Eastern Grey, and Antilopene kangaroos. This was the first time I had seen Antilopene kangaroos and they really are a muscular, bulky sort. While the Eastern Grey forepaws (? are they called forepaws?) as described by Steve the Guide are sort of t-rex, the Antilopene are more the Arnold Schwarzenegger type.
One group of Eastern Grey males started chasing a female while we watched. She led them on a serpentine path, and it was fun to watch for awhile, but none of the males caught her, and besides, maybe they needed a little privacy, so we moved on.
After we arrived at Barkers Cave, Steve the Guide set up a very nice offering of fruit and cheese, and served us sparkling wine as the sun set and the moon rose. It was a beautiful night, the sky was clear and the moon full.
Steve the Guide described to us what we were about to see as night fell. The bats that lived in Barkers cave would begin to flow out. A hawk would come in and perch on a tree, the first bat would come out and turn left, and the hawk would get its dinner.
Sure enough, we spotted a Collared Sparrow Hawk fly in and start hanging around. Soon, the first bat comes out, turns left, and boom! Dinner. That night, the hawk got two for two.
Again telling us what to expect before we walked down to the cave, Steve the Guide led us to the mouth of the cave. As it got darker, the flow of the bats grew. It was really incredible to have the bats pouring out of the cave and and flying all around you.
The hawks weren't the only ones who saw this as an opportunity for dinner. Snakes hang around the mouth of the cave as well, snagging a few as they fly by. That night we saw Night Tigers (also known as brown tree snakes or dull eyes) and Children's Python. There were some on the outer edge of the tube itself, and some hanging from tree limbs overhanging the cave mouth.
Steve the Guide walks us a little farther (further--eek, grammar lessons fail me now), walking under the snakes, so that we are right in the mouth. He turns the spotlight on a few times so we can see this virtual highway of bats flowing down the tubes. Truly an incredible sight.
Marion (an Australian from Perth who started hanging out with me) asked what was glowing on the far side of the tube. This confused Steve the Guide as there isn't ever any fluorescence in the caves. Eventually they realize that it is the full moon reflecting off the back of the cave as the moon rose. It got brighter and brighter the higher the moon got.
On the road back, they spotted the coolest little owls, called Boobook owls. One of them was really struggling to stay on its tree limb, slipping and fluttering, getting in place, then slipping again. Alan said it was a baby.
The Day Tour
There are limited tours during this off-season, so my only option is a two-hour tour that starts at 10:30. Steve and Alan went off birding, and I joined Steve the Guide and quite a few others for the ride out to the tubes.
The tubes are amazing. The sheer size of them doesn't come across in pictures, and I don't know that I can do an adequate job of describing it. In one tube you could have two trains side by side running on their tracks (and have room to spare) and, you could double deck them. They are just massive.
It's not just the size that is awe-inspiring, the geological history also amazes.
We visit The Arch, Stephenson's, and one other tube. There are butterflies everywhere. Steve the Guide tells us about one tube where there is a lake around the corner, and at certain times of day you can see butterflies, wallabies and birds all lined up to take their turn getting drinks. The staff only checks on it twice a year (to check water levels) and leave it undisturbed for the wildlife.
Some of the tubes are so high in carbon dioxide that you cannot go in them without breathing apparatus. This may be why the aborigines thought the tubes were filled with evil spirits - people would enter, and not return. They have only found evidence of tube occupation by aborigines in one tube, and all that was there were ashes.
And, as it turns out, one of the tubes we would normally be able to into was too high in carbon dioxide that day. A lot of the tubes have tree roots that have grown through the roof, and because there had been recent rains the roots were giving off carbon dioxide. We were able to stand on a platform at the mouth of the tube, but not go any further.
The Lodge, and Dining
There are several options for staying at Undara. Campsites, safari tents, the railcars, and now some small cabins. Because normally it would be quite hot this time of year Alan had booked the cabins in case we needed air conditioning. As it turned out, we didn't need it but the cabins were really pretty nice. Each had a small veranda out front and I spent some time there reading, drinking tea, and watching kangaroos.
On Tuesday morning at one point there were eight kangaroos right in front of my cabin. There were males, females, and a little joey. They grazed a little, but then several of them scratched up a bit of dirt and settled in for a snooze. I watched the momma groom her joey for a bit as well. I got some photos, and some video, and down the road I will get them off my camera and post them.
There is a nice pool to use (didn't get the chance) and the dining/bar are is very nice. It's a huge area, covered with a really high roof but open otherwise. Around the edges they do have some of the railway cars for dining. We ate our meals at a table right at the front (since there was no one else there) watching birds and kangaroos go by.
For dinner they gave us two choices, and for breakfast you pretty much got what they served. It was fine, and actually pretty reasonable--sometimes when there is only one dining option they kind of stick it to you. That wasn't the case here. I did have a XXXX Gold with dinner the first day, and it was ice cold and delicious!
Steve the Guide's rules of to live by
Steve the Guide had a few truisms to share!
While lava tubes exist elsewhere in the world, most notably Hawaii, the longest in the world is here in Australia. It was great to have AlanG with us as well because he was able to provide even more in-depth information than the guides, and, he brought along a book that I could read about the tubes.
The tubes are creating when the outer edges of a lava flow harden, but the interior continues to flow and push through. I'm sure that is not the most scientific way to describe it, but if you want to really understand it, here's a site that describes the creation:
http://undara.com.au/about/tunnels-to-a-wildlife-underworld/
Essentially (to me) they become really massive horizontal caves.
It's an interesting setup, where the area is a national park, but the lodge and guiding is a private enterprise. In this case, the Collins family was there first, and had built the infrastructure (including the transfer and installation of the railway cars for lodging) and doing the tours. When the gov't was annexing the land for a national park, because of the infrastructure investment they basically couldn't afford to buy them out. So the Collins family gave them the surrounding land, but was able to keep their private enterprise.
We were there in the wet season, so where normally there are 30 employees running the place, while we were there, there were just 3. And a fabulous three at that, they were all very very nice.
During our stay we all did the Sunset Tour the first night, and I did the morning tour the next day while Steve and Alan birded.
Sunset Tour
Steve the Guide loaded us all up in a little minivan at 6 to head out for the sunset tour. This wasn't really so much about the sunset, as it was about the bats!
The ride out to Barkers Cave included lots of looks at Whiptail, Eastern Grey, and Antilopene kangaroos. This was the first time I had seen Antilopene kangaroos and they really are a muscular, bulky sort. While the Eastern Grey forepaws (? are they called forepaws?) as described by Steve the Guide are sort of t-rex, the Antilopene are more the Arnold Schwarzenegger type.
One group of Eastern Grey males started chasing a female while we watched. She led them on a serpentine path, and it was fun to watch for awhile, but none of the males caught her, and besides, maybe they needed a little privacy, so we moved on.
After we arrived at Barkers Cave, Steve the Guide set up a very nice offering of fruit and cheese, and served us sparkling wine as the sun set and the moon rose. It was a beautiful night, the sky was clear and the moon full.
Steve the Guide described to us what we were about to see as night fell. The bats that lived in Barkers cave would begin to flow out. A hawk would come in and perch on a tree, the first bat would come out and turn left, and the hawk would get its dinner.
Sure enough, we spotted a Collared Sparrow Hawk fly in and start hanging around. Soon, the first bat comes out, turns left, and boom! Dinner. That night, the hawk got two for two.
Again telling us what to expect before we walked down to the cave, Steve the Guide led us to the mouth of the cave. As it got darker, the flow of the bats grew. It was really incredible to have the bats pouring out of the cave and and flying all around you.
The hawks weren't the only ones who saw this as an opportunity for dinner. Snakes hang around the mouth of the cave as well, snagging a few as they fly by. That night we saw Night Tigers (also known as brown tree snakes or dull eyes) and Children's Python. There were some on the outer edge of the tube itself, and some hanging from tree limbs overhanging the cave mouth.
Steve the Guide walks us a little farther (further--eek, grammar lessons fail me now), walking under the snakes, so that we are right in the mouth. He turns the spotlight on a few times so we can see this virtual highway of bats flowing down the tubes. Truly an incredible sight.
Marion (an Australian from Perth who started hanging out with me) asked what was glowing on the far side of the tube. This confused Steve the Guide as there isn't ever any fluorescence in the caves. Eventually they realize that it is the full moon reflecting off the back of the cave as the moon rose. It got brighter and brighter the higher the moon got.
On the road back, they spotted the coolest little owls, called Boobook owls. One of them was really struggling to stay on its tree limb, slipping and fluttering, getting in place, then slipping again. Alan said it was a baby.
The Day Tour
There are limited tours during this off-season, so my only option is a two-hour tour that starts at 10:30. Steve and Alan went off birding, and I joined Steve the Guide and quite a few others for the ride out to the tubes.
The tubes are amazing. The sheer size of them doesn't come across in pictures, and I don't know that I can do an adequate job of describing it. In one tube you could have two trains side by side running on their tracks (and have room to spare) and, you could double deck them. They are just massive.
It's not just the size that is awe-inspiring, the geological history also amazes.
We visit The Arch, Stephenson's, and one other tube. There are butterflies everywhere. Steve the Guide tells us about one tube where there is a lake around the corner, and at certain times of day you can see butterflies, wallabies and birds all lined up to take their turn getting drinks. The staff only checks on it twice a year (to check water levels) and leave it undisturbed for the wildlife.
Some of the tubes are so high in carbon dioxide that you cannot go in them without breathing apparatus. This may be why the aborigines thought the tubes were filled with evil spirits - people would enter, and not return. They have only found evidence of tube occupation by aborigines in one tube, and all that was there were ashes.
And, as it turns out, one of the tubes we would normally be able to into was too high in carbon dioxide that day. A lot of the tubes have tree roots that have grown through the roof, and because there had been recent rains the roots were giving off carbon dioxide. We were able to stand on a platform at the mouth of the tube, but not go any further.
The Lodge, and Dining
There are several options for staying at Undara. Campsites, safari tents, the railcars, and now some small cabins. Because normally it would be quite hot this time of year Alan had booked the cabins in case we needed air conditioning. As it turned out, we didn't need it but the cabins were really pretty nice. Each had a small veranda out front and I spent some time there reading, drinking tea, and watching kangaroos.
On Tuesday morning at one point there were eight kangaroos right in front of my cabin. There were males, females, and a little joey. They grazed a little, but then several of them scratched up a bit of dirt and settled in for a snooze. I watched the momma groom her joey for a bit as well. I got some photos, and some video, and down the road I will get them off my camera and post them.
There is a nice pool to use (didn't get the chance) and the dining/bar are is very nice. It's a huge area, covered with a really high roof but open otherwise. Around the edges they do have some of the railway cars for dining. We ate our meals at a table right at the front (since there was no one else there) watching birds and kangaroos go by.
For dinner they gave us two choices, and for breakfast you pretty much got what they served. It was fine, and actually pretty reasonable--sometimes when there is only one dining option they kind of stick it to you. That wasn't the case here. I did have a XXXX Gold with dinner the first day, and it was ice cold and delicious!
Steve the Guide's rules of to live by
Steve the Guide had a few truisms to share!
- If you are stranded in the wilderness, think of what Bear Grylls would do, then do the exact opposite
- Don't drink bottled water!
- Don't eat wild mushrooms!
- Don't line your campfire with Basalt or River Rock. It will explode and kill you!
Birds, Butterflies, and Critters of note over the two days
Blue triangles
Big Greasy (Clearwing)
Common Crow
Varied Egg Fly
Full BarredSwallowtail
Prettyface/Whiptail
Eastern Grey
Antilopene
Night tiger snake
Children's Python
Collared Sparrowhawk
Boobook owl
Golden Bowerbird (Stop at Mt Hypipamee on the way back to Yungaburra)
Thursday, December 19, 2013
Granite Gorge Nature Park, Queensland, Australia
Today (December 19) we visited Granite Gorge, about 12 kilometers from Mareeba. It's not a nature park in the sense of cages and enclosures. It's just a privately owned acreage where you can put up a tent, drive in a camper, or rent a small cabin.
There are cool birds to look for, and, start of the show, Rock Wallabys. There are absolutely huge (big as a house) boulders of granite, perfect habitate for the wallabys. Over the years they have become really used to humans so will walk right up to you and eat the wallaby food pellets right out of your hands.
It was really something to be up close and personal with them. They have tiny little claws, beautiful long eyelashes, and hiss and shove each other around if they think someone is hogging all the attention (and food).
The terrain here was spectacular as well. And now, I will try to post some pictures and video!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)